SOUTH KOREA ICE CLIMBING WORLD CUP, 2012

SOUTH KOREA ICE WORLD CUP, 2012

FULL MOON SET AND GETTING READY TO CHASE THE SUN ... TO SOUTH KOREA

Sitting in my seat and looking down on northern Russia and towards the pole, the temps are -50C. Unfortunately, the temperatures in Kirov, Russia were -38C with moderate winds and snowing during my first Ice World Cup. I knew that it was going to be tough going for the next 2 months and that I had a long way to go and a lot to learn about the mixed climbing scene in Europe.

ANTICIPATION.

Over the next three years, and logging many trips across all the ponds to Korea, Romania, Italy, Switzerland, France, and Russia, etc., I found that the American scene had somehow lost its way in the evolution of mixed climbing. The standard that I thought was so high was, in fact, not. Perhaps it was the climbing media’s portrayal that mixed climbing was a “dead-end sport,” or perhaps it was those who were leading the scene got their asses handed to them, they ran out of vision, or simply “got their cups filled,” but there was a sudden ceiling effect.

Going to the French National competition, I met up with Jeff Mercier. I had helped set the competition route at Ouray on the “diving board” that he made famous with his go-for-broke dyno to the finishing hold, barely making the magic happen. Jeff and crew has never slowed down with his “no figure 4 rule” in the competition left all the World Cup competitors launching for holds so far away that it just inspired everyone to throw harder. Jeff’s style isn’t for everyone, but it is fun to climb his routes in his style.

Stephanie Mereau took us to Le Usine, France last year for a proper schooling. This monstrous cave is home to dry tooling at it’s most refined extreme touting grade of D15 (like M15 without the ice). Later, I climbed together with Markus Bendler. I’m not sure what the grade difference is between North America and Europe, but I couldn’t knock off one of Bendler’s “M9s” when I can on-sight M11 back home. You should see one of his “M12s,” a completely blind horizontal dead point to a hold about 3mm deep. Marcus has won over 40 World Cups and can nab that hold 1/20 attempts on a good day. Needless to say, I’m still in my infancy of the learning curve in this game.

KOREAN ALPINE FEDERATION'S INDOOR 5 STORY ICE CLIMBING TRAINING CENTER.

Many countries have proper teams, supported financially, and have coaches. I’ve never had a coach for ice climbing, but I have coached. Intimidating as it is, being an athlete from the USA to compete at World Competitions still inspires me. It’s a big challenge, not only to participate, but to take on droves of Russians, South Koreans, and many other countries with formal teams.

I love the sport of this type of climbing, but it can be so taxing in so many ways. It’s the time machine that kills me: planes chasing the sun over the pole and around the earth, long bus rides, train transfers, and many nights in a foreign bed, on a floor, or on a couch. It’s all worth it though. That’s part of the cost of the ticket to live this life and have it be a memorable one without regrets. Keep on following that dream !

Korea World Cup

I'm looking forward going back to Cheongsong and once again representing the USA as an "Army of One." It's time to go back to the "big pond" in the climbing competition circuit, the World Cup. South Korea is host to the opening UIAA International Ice Climbing World Cup Competition. This is by far the biggest event in mixed rock and ice climbing competitions anywhere in the world.

Flyer by UIAA

After being injured with a torn bicep muscle, I am managing to stay healthy and have had a fairly descent recovery thus far, but my pre-season training suffered. I had not climbed a route until I took second place at the indoor mixed competition in Colorado Springs in November, 2011. I'm a bit intimidated this year since I know how hard the competition routes are and how honed the other competitors will be, but I hope that I am on the uprising of performance at this point. Anything can happen in competitions though.

It's hard to get all my affairs in order prior to departure. Passport, competition license, reservations, airfare, and all the logistics it takes to get there...and back. The guide service suffers and Strike Rescue is getting ready to launch a new program at the University of New Mexico's EMS Academy. I'll be working while resting. I'm still working with the US Forest Service on permits for avalanche courses and keeping up with continuing medical education. There's always work to be done, even while on the road.

I stay up all night the day of the flight, not only because I'm afraid I'll miss my flight, but also to feel somewhat human when I land in Seoul. Crossing the International Date Line and having to compete is not so easy, but it's easier than going to Europe for some reason. I manage to squeeze in one more work out under the halogen lights on my climbing wall in the back yard and get my last green chili fix before heading to the airport. I'll crash out on the plane with knowing that my friends and family support me.

Ouray Ice Competition ... Rules ? Occam's Razor Failure.

So people are asking me about what happened at the Ouray Ice Climbing Competition, 2012. Well, I got disqualified. Conflicting information and rules led to me following some other competitors looking at the route with binoculars and camera. Here's the facts and the latest e-mail I got from the Competition Director:

Marc,

Congratulations on being accepted as a competitor in the 2012 Ouray Ice Festival mixed comp. We are excited to have you participate and hope your psyche level is high and that you have been training hard.

The competition is an invitational event and seeding will be determined by a jersey draw at the competitors meeting to be held on Friday the 6^th. I will notify you of the time and place of the meeting once we have all of the details worked out.

Vince Anderson is setting the route again this season and the route will be located near the lower bridge in the Ice Park by the vendors area. If you are in Ouray and see Vince or any Ice Park employees working on the route please do not watch. I do not mind if you look at the route from the viewing stand area, but anyone caught scoping the route from the gorge floor, on a nearby route or watching work being done on the route by the setters will be disqualified from competing.

I will be in touch in the coming weeks with more details on the comp for you and if you have any questions please feel to drop me an email.

Once again congrats and I am psyched to have you giving your all in Ouray.

Cheers,

Comp Director

In all fairness to the Ice Park, and to my own demise, it does say on the web site that there should be no binos or cameras on the web site. I failed to see this and relied on Bill's e-mail above, and the fact that other competitors were doing the same and I was somehow singled out. However, the rules here change every year and there needs to be some standardization. It was o.k. to use these things several years ago, the comp route was a red point last year (meaning all the competitors actually got to climb on the route before the competition), and this year it's all different.

The part that really bumbs me out is that another competitor felt so threatened by it that they had to make it a big deal rather than approaching me directly. As competitors, we are only able to gauge ourselves against other competitors to measure ourselves. What a pity that they felt so insecure about themselves to have it wind up this way. Furthermore, the fact that the officials decided to take action based on that person demanding action or else they would not compete, and action was taken to grease the squeaky wheel without all the facts presented, is even more disappointing.

When I asked who made the complaint, they told me to divulge the names of the others who were also engaged in the viewing with cameras and binoculars. I refused to give the names of the others who were also doing the same. I don't feel that it is in the spirit of the competition or fair to others who were in the same situation I was.

I'm not so sure that there's any advantage from the use of adjuncts to view the route. To view the route with binos or photos does nothing. Watching someone climb the route is altogether different since seeing someone climb will show where the holds likely are and how to do the moves. The use of adjuncts to view the route is more of a mental exercise since adjunctive viewing offers nothing over viewing with the naked eye aside from perhaps calming the nerves a bit. The Ouray competition is different than World Cups since the climb is on a wall and part of the difficulty is simply finding the correct hold. In World Cup, it's a no-brainer where to go, but the holds themselves are difficult to stay on.

The funny thing is that other athletes in the past have done the same and no action was taken. I recall an athlete actually getting on the route prior to an on-sight competition and nothing came of it. I get it that they are trying to have consistency and uphold the rules. I don't feel like my actions were subversive or in any way compromised the integrity of the competition. Why? There's no advantage of looking at the route since you can't even see the holds. In fact, photos of the route were posted on-line prior to start of the competition (not by me) anyway, the day before the competition.

I hope this doesn't ever happen to anyone else in the future and perhaps this will allow better insight for the powers the be as to how this can be avoided in the future. I set competition routes the Ice Comp and Jeff Lowe in 2000, with Michal Gilbert in 2001, and again helping Jason Nelson by setting the unforgettable diving board finish when Jeff Mercier beat Inez Papert by a single move. I've worked as a belayer on the suspended platform before I started competing. So I understand what goes into making a competition run in Ouray, the associated headaches, and the politics. I appreciate Vince Anderson's efforts as a route setter this year and can only be sad that I was not allowed to climb his route.

At any rate, I was not able to be heard, I didn't get to compete, and that's a wrap. Time to move on. What a waste. That's the way it goes with competition climbing. There's ups and downs and rolling with the punches is just part of the game. So this is my perspective and only my opinion. I respect the decision made, but don't agree with it.

I appreciate all those who can understand and support me through both the good times and the bad. I love mixed climbing. It's my favorite form of climbing and I enjoy competitions most of the time.

The good news is that I got to spend some time with friends and go climbing on some of the hardest routes in the USA. I got to help new ice climbers put on their crampons for the first time and help other competitors sharpen their picks. I was also able to refocus and set sights on loftier goals like getting back to the Hall of Justice where I still have projects, the UIAA Ice World Cup, and the Winter TEVA Games in Vail.

Ouray 2012 Mixed Rock and Ice Climbing Competition

For the past two years I ahve been on a World Cup rampage to try to hone my skills as best I can and submerge myself into the "big sea" of big competition climbing. I've taken 26th in difficulty and 19th in speed in 2009 and then lost momentum in 2010 with no placement. Albeit, I have been busy: completed my UIAGM/IFMGA Mountain Guide Certification, continued with my PhD, rebuilt the house, obtained a contract with UNM to teach Strike Rescue courses, and restarted work as a Physician Assistant. It's been a busy year. Needless to say, I don't ahve much expectation for sending hard lines or winning any competitions. However, the first time I really climbed this year I took 2nd at the City Rock climbing competition in Colorado Springs on the way back from a PA conference.



The Ouray Invitational Ice Competition is this coming weekend and so I've put in some time and will hope to do well. I go back for a day of work and then off to the first UIAA World Cup in South Korea. I am super excited to kick things off this year back in Ouray. It's been about 3 years since I've competed there and I'm hoping that the route will be much better than it was the list time. Hell, I'd rather fall off crappy ice than be called out of bounds like I was in Saas Fee, Switzerland when there's no boundary lines (not going back this year simply to make a statement). Ya, nothing but sour Suiss grapes there. That's o.k. Angelika Rainier (Italy) got totally screwed on the finals in Korea. There's always something in competitions. Even if you're on the podium, you feel that you could have done better. Somehow, its never enough.

Either way, it's all about the journey, and I've learned so much and come so far from where I was. I realize how much I stand on the shoulders of those before me, and the shoulders of my friends. I revel in the competitions not only to push myself but to reconnect with those I share a special bond with - of the element of hard mixed climbing - competition or not.




Angie knows how ADHD I can be so she's coming to NM to help us out with the Strike Rescue (SR) course at UNM this next semester. Justin Spain and Jason Williams are the other instructors that will be taking lead roles. She went with us to Mexico to explore the Crystal Caves with the National Geographic. We have a great team and I'm looking forward to this new year of 2012 and the challenges it will bring.

Mixed Rock and Ice World Cup 2012

I'm looking forward to the next 3 months, January, February, and March. They are my most favorite of the year without question. The Fall semester is over, the sun has lowered into the winter sky, and the temperatures drop to once again encase the mountains in my favorite crystal lattices of ice and snow. No bugs, few crowds, fires in the wood stove, it just gets better. How? Because climbing is now funner than any other time of the year. Sure, I like to rock climb, but I love to ice climb.
I'm looking down the barrel of the UIAA International Ice Climbing World Cup once again and am really excited to be going back for my third year of participating in this incredible competition. I have gained so much as a climber from these competitions it's difficult to put into words. It's hard to sum up the days, the weeks, the months on the road. Sharing a drive that all the competitors have during these competitions is beyond explanation.
Sometimes, the World Cup feels like a traveling circus, doing stupid human tricks for a couple days, then getting back on the road with the "carnies" and doing it all over again in yet another country. What breaks up the madness of the competitions is the development of a family. We speak different languages, share good times and bad, and learn about each others cultures and traditions.
I hope that I will be able to continue to represent the United States of America this year as best I can in this forum...on all fronts. I'm looking forward to freeing up some time and getting away from school, from work, and the all of my "local duties" to get back on the circuit. And although I think this year will bring some change to the ice climbing realm it should be a great year to get back to some of the older stomping grounds and realize the future.


Getting ready for the road,
Marc

Guided Climbing Threatenend in the Black Canyon of the Gunnison

Climbers are an easy target, believe it or not. Why ?? Because climbers are like cats and trying to herd them together for a common cause is nearly impossible. Climbers can't even agree on ethics, ratings, or access issues.

My thought is that people climb for many reasons. However, one of the common threads that everyone shears in climbing is the sense of freedom. We, meaning all of us, are becoming more threatened from many angles. One of which is the banning of guiding in the National Parks. Although I don't personally guide much in the Parks, I see it as a threat to all guided climbing. The trend will then become to close down climbing altogether. Think that's far fetched ? Think again.

I would ask anyone who is interested in preserving climbing in some of the most beautiful places in the world, like the Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park, to take action against the oppression. How ? Here's the recommendation form the American Mountain Guides Association:

The Park has already heard from guides, and what they really need are comments from the general public and clients.

What can you do now?

1. Email your client list, friends and fellow climbers today urging them to submit a comment by Oct. 27th. Use Facebook, your website, blog and any other communication vehicles to get the word out to your clients.

2. See below for a sample email to your clients, friends and fellow climbers.

It's in all of our interests to raise awareness and take action on this important issue today. The deadline for comments is Thursday, October 27th. Thank you for supporting the future of the profession in the U.S.

For more information, visit http://parkplanning.nps.gov

The National Park Service wants to ban guided climbing and prohibit members of the public from being able to climb with a professional guide in one of our country's most adventurous wilderness climbing areas. This is a national threat, which could set a debilitating precedent for guided climbing access in National Parks across the country. We are requesting your urgent support to help preserve guided climbing access in the Black Canyon as well as in other National Parks the U.S.

Here is another way how you can help:

Send an email to Ken_Stahlnecker@nps.gov today using the talking points below. Our goal is to have 500 people (who are not guides) contact Ken Stahlnecker opposing the Park's plan to ban guided climbing in the Black Canyon and urging the Park to preserve guiding climbing access in this unique venue.

Dear Ken Stahlnecker,

Chief, Resource Stewardship and Science

National Park Service,

Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park

I am writing to urge you to keep guided climbing access available to the American public. Along with Yosemite National Park and Red Rocks National Conservation Area, the Black Canyon is one of only a few climbing venues in the country offering big wall climbing opportunities. There is often a scarcity of willing and adequate climbing partners to tackle the bold and remote terrain of the Black. Because climbing requires a team of two unless one is free soloing, my options for experiencing this unique wilderness area will be substantially reduced or eliminated altogether if guided climbing is banned in the Inner Canyon Zone.

Having the option to climb with a professional guide is necessary for me to be able to experience the vertical wilderness in the Black Canyon. Partnering with a professional guide will enhance my opportunity for an experience of adventure, challenge and self-reliance. I see no difference between climbing with a professional guide and climbing with a non-guide partner who happens to be stronger or more experienced than me. It is not uncommon for climbing partners to be of varying levels of experience. Climbing successfully in the Black always requires the self-reliance, commitment and personal fortitude of both climbing partners regardless of their varying experience levels.

Rescue in the Sandias

 

Rescue on the Shield, Rainbow Dancer, 5.11 R Sandia Mountains, NM.

When working as a PA in the CCU/ICU, and there were few patients in-house (in the hospital), I used to say "wow, it's slow." The nurses would then "psssst" me, or say "oh great, now you blew it," meaning I somehow jinxed the "calm" and soon the floor would be overloaded. I never witnessed bad luck coming to fruition immediately, but it eventually happens. We can only hold our breath for so long. Such is the case with rescue work. This summer is starting to remind me of the 1996 season in the Sandias when there were 11 total fallen climbers where rescues were called and only 4 survived.

I've been on rescues on nearly every rock face in the Sandias, and have pondered where a worst nightmare case scenario might be. I still have those locked up under my hat because I don't want to "jinx" anyone. But this week one of those events came to fruition. A 26 year old female fell while lead climbing on the second pitch of Rainbow Dancer on the Shield, the Sandia's most formidable face that stands more than 1000 feet tall, rivaling some of the biggest faces in United States. She had climbed up and apparently pulled on a piece of rock that broke from the wall. It is unknown exactly how far she fell, but she hit the ledge below and became an instant critical trauma patient.

Her friend rappelled her from the ledge to the ground, then made a brief attempt of carrying her out, but only made it a few meters before realizing that it would not be possible, nor ideal to continue. He then ran for help. He eventually found someone far below on the Piedra Lisa Trail and asked them for a first aid kit and to call for 911 for help. The climbers had neither a first aid kit nor a phone. We actually got none of the information above, we only knew that there was a fallen climber with a broken leg on the Shield. The the BCFD and NMSP Incident Commanders had sparse information and could only guess as how to respond, but sent crews out with the hope of success of finding her and begin to effect a rescue. People watched like "Eiger Birds" through spotting scopes, but seeing someone on the Shield from Albuquerque is next to impossible.

Only some of the ground team of rescuers were able to reach her since the way to the base of the Shield is difficult terrain. She was actually more critical than what was thought and the clock was ticking for her. Radio communications from Justin Spain came through my headset in the Blackhawk helicopter that she was unstable and had poor lung sounds. We flew around the cliff faces waiting for the final packaging and preparation to have the patient hoisted up.  The hoist mandated that the pilot hover close to the face of the Shield and with the tail rotor nearing the trees on the steep ramp at the base.

 Preparing for hoist up against the Shield

The New Mexico National Guard has several premiere flight teams and medics. Today, they helped civilian rescuers help others. I've been fortunate to have worked with them on many missions like this one over the past 30 years while doing rescue work. Long story short, their medic administered pain medicine to her and was hoisted back up with the patient. She was wrapped up in multiple splints and secured into a litter.

I won't go into the details of the patient's injuries, but we had to perform life-saving measures by decompressing her lungs with large bore catheters and administering 2 units of blood in conjunction with her IV fluid once she was loaded into the Blackhawk. Myself and Drew Harroll, MD attended her into the ambulance and then into the trauma room at UNMH where we passed off care to a 20 person trauma team quietly awaiting our arrival.

Although I've run 1000's of trauma calls, I find that my heart is being able to provide care to mountaineers where few others can. Most mountaineers don't help others. They don't have time for it in their personal pursuits.

The very fast hoist and transfer to Johnson Field at UNM. The Blackhawk flew in at about 200 m.p.h. and lost nearly 3500' in elevation to get this patient to the trauma room.

On another note, I've been publicly accused of putting in too many bolts in the Sandias on the web site Mountain Project. Perhaps my style or ethic rubs some people the wrong way. I've scraped up enough people to know that bolts save lives. I now publicly challenge those who condemn me to come out and take my place and rescue their friends, family, and climbing partners. The same holds for anyone who prefers to slander rather than resolve issues. In Albuquerque, the rescue community is bonded together with a focus rather than scattered.

I hope that this climber will be able to recover. I know from my experience that had we not been able to get to her that she would have died within a couple more hours at best. This is the most critical trauma patient that I have brought out of the wilderness that has survived...but she's not out of the woods yet.

I love to climb and ski and I love medicine. Bad things happen, no doubt. But mitigating risk is part of the game. Preparing for a consequence is also part of that game. Everyone is involved, whether you like it or not. I'm happy to be a part of Strike Rescue as well as Albuquerque Mountain Rescue and to offer my abilities to those who need it when things go wrong.