Saturday, April 30, 2011

Home updated and redesigned.

For the past 11 months my house has been more like a tent. The roof leaked, the windows separated from the frames when the wind would blow, and the yards were not so functional to say the least. Then, I had the discussion with Chrissie and we decided to pull the trigger on the refinance. We wound up paying less for our mortgage that we did prior to the redesign and remodel. The key to all this new change was my father, Jim Beverly.

I grew up watching my father starting out in landscape design. He worked for some small construction companies during the sprawl of suburbia as an architect. He gained recognition and started out on his own building some of the best award winning houses in New Mexico. His signature designs stem from an appreciation of the ancient Anasazi. Their incredible buildings found specifically at Chaco, are an immense complex of pueblos strewn over many miles in the remote New Mexican high desert landscape. The walls of places like Pueblo Bonito have cardinally aligned walls. Some pueblos are solar pueblos and some are lunar. Pueblo walls are aligned with other pueblos in other canyons with large buttes in between them.

If you don't know anything about Chaco Canyon, WATCH THIS VIDEO.

Obviously, a culture that was in existence for nearly 1600 years has something to teach us. My father has picked up on many of those nuances and uses what he has leaned in the design of the houses he designs. He can visualize how the potential house will integrate with the environment the house will be placed in to reap the largest benefit of the local aesthetics, a kind of Southwestern Feng Shui of sorts is the best way I can explain it. He then takes all of that and considers the practicality of the people who will live there and develops extraordinary functionality.

Jim Beverly has been awarded top prizes in the Parade of Homes. He lives in his own master pieces. I have been fortunate enough to help him with menial tasks along the way like cleaning up the construction site, wetting down the uncured stucco, and running odd chores here and there.

Now, I am even more fortunate. Jim Beverly is helping to update my home. A new roof that works and will last for at least 30 years is now up and protecting the home. New awesome windows are installed all around and new stucco. He's not a fan of Stoe, but it's great since the guy doing the work is also talented and has worked with my father for over 20 years. We built an additional storage unit and have revamped both front and back yards. the grading is now set so that the water will drain off the lot and not into the garage. A new Drolet wood burning stove is now the main source of heat. Jim put in a patio wall with an incredible design that allows for a large patio that provides protection from the elements and privacy from the street and city park. We've increased lighting with solar tubes in the garage and the bathroom. We've replaced the garage doors that were falling apart with new insulated doors.

The city gave us a discount on the windows, and placing xeric landscaping. The windows, the new roof and the stucco have made the casita tight and weather proof. The heating costs have gone down more than $200 per month. It will be nice to live in a place that is palatial for a guy like me. The training wall has also been worked into the mix.

Yes, I'm bragging on my dad, but don't take my word for it. Check out the before and after picture(s). I'm psyched. In these times of economic hardship, I'm happy to say that I'll be paying less for more. I'm happy that we'll be making less of a carbon footprint in regards to using natural gas and electric for heating and cooling. I've put a lot of work into this project as well and I'll admit that its been stressful at times, but I can't wait to reap the benefits once its done.

Jim Beverly Designs is a great custom homes design company. He'll be working on some friend's houses in the near future, but can design a new home for you if you're in the market.

I'm happy that this portion of my life if coming to a close. Owning a house can indeed be a black hole of money, labor, and an emotional sink hole. However, it's a nice place to rest weary bones from long trips to wherever around the world. It's also the office, so it's nice to make a warm cup of coffee, have a gin martini by the backyard fire pit, or get in a good climbing sesh on the backyard wall. For now, the major renovations are over and it's time to get back to business.

Monday, April 18, 2011

Grigri 2 - the coming of age


The new Petzl Grigri 2 is what I've been waiting for. As a mountain guide, I look at any device for multiple uses. The Grigri 2 not only provides great security, hands-free descents for double rope technique and counter balance rappels, but also offers light weight and space saving for those staunch about those kinds of things (like airlines and every climber out there).

I've been using it to put up new routes as well. The handling is a little more compact. The ropes that most climbers use are in the 9mm range and the Grigri 2 handles this range with ease.

Over the years I have used the regular Grigri in drop testing and have abused it more than anyone out there...I'm almost sure. I've done so many pull tests with the Grigri that I've incorporated it into my armamentarium for rescue work holding 2kN loads ! The new Grigri 2 is made with the same workmanship as the standard Grigri and I'm sure that it should be just as good, and perhaps better ! I say this because mountaineers and guides will now have a new weapon to use with those smaller ropes when dealing with crevasse rescue or smaller static lines for big walling.

You can order your new Grigri 2 at the strike Rescue store:
http://store.strikerescue.com/store.php?crn=235&rn=480&action=show_detail

There's limited supply and Petzl has been on a six month back order.

I'm excited to have this new tool in the tool box for sure. Personally, I use the Petzl Omni carabiner so that I also never have to worry about cross loading my belay device carabiner. We;ve recently integrated this biner into the Albuquerque Mountain Rescue's litter spider. It's got beefier stock aluminum too.

I think that everyone will be upgrading to the new Grigri 2 sooner than later.

Addendum: Yes, there was a recall. The recall notice comes after a recent finding where someone was using the device incorrectly and found that they could "lock it open", essentially turning the Grigri 2 into an plate device and by-passing the drum's added friction. Although people should never let go of the brake hand, it happens all too often and presents a potential hazard. It was an incidental finding and no injuries have occurred, but Petzl thought that it was siginificant enough for them to recall the device. Only the updated Grigri 2 will be sold through our store.