Monday, December 20, 2010

Winter Losing its Grip?

Last week, I skied in the Sandias where the unforecasted storm dumped a mere 36" of snow in a single storm. I was using a shop-vac to get the standing water off my roof. Having construction on the house doesn't help in times like this and there was a load of leaks until the water could be taken off the flat territorial New Mexican 1980's style roof They didn't build a pitch in the roof for drainage back then for some stupid reason.

Photo by Jason Nelson. The new caved coined the "Hall of Justice" because of the Superhero theme that Nelson started when putting up the first mixed routes.


Driving into Ouray, Colorado this week, I was shocked to find no snow in town and a dwindling Ice Park from RAIN !? The temps in Ouray have been balmy and it hasn't been freezing for nights on end. The Ice Park that was open to ice climbing is now closed to the public until conditions improve since the ice has dwindled to look like a late Spring melt-down. The avalanche danger is high to extreme so I'm glad I'm climbing rock with ice tools once again.

Meanwhile, I came to climb with Jason Nelson. He has put up a climb, "Holy Girl Pile, Batman" WI4 M12, in a remote cave that I have been wanting to get on for nearly two years. I figured it would be a good time since I am getting ready to return to the International World Ice Climbing Competition as there is really only 2 or 3 routes of this difficulty in the USA. The difference is that climbing outside is really nothing like climbing in a IWC. On real rock one can spend a lot of energy looking for the next hold. It would be rare that someone would be able to walk up to a climb rated M12 and be successful on the first attempt.

The climbing is awesome and highly exposed. The climbing is overhanging from the time one gets on the route. After the 6th bolt the climbing gets intense and technical. I had a good time working through the route and figuring out where the holds were and how the moves go.

We're also putting more bolts/extensions in the routes he already has established. This cave is going to be a spectacular place to train for IWC. I was in Vail last week and decided that it would be o.k. for training too, but the harsh reality, is that I'm still not really sure of how to train the best, most optimally, for the IWC. On-sighting climbs is a great skill, but there's more to it than just being able to read where the route goes, and more to it than brute strength. Technique and confidence may trump everything.

having my confidence shattered in several venues over the years, its hard to pick oneself up out of the mental mud pit and persevere. But this isn't an option I'm talking about, it's a mandatory shift in daily perception. Gotta' get up every day punch that clock and figure out how to be the best with what ya got.

There's no coach to tell me how or when to train, watch what I eat so I don't develop a worse blood dyscrasia, how to work around a fused cervical spine, or an aging body. The love of the mixed climbing movement keeps my spirit high. Really, it's this sport that saved me from a bitter otherwise. Thanks to all those whose shoulders I stand on, those who continue to develop this sport of mixed rock and ice climbing, and those who hold the key to be my inspiration.

What keeps us going is the personal challenges that we set for ourselves. New Year's Eve is coming and so is the time to consider what challenges will make us rise to the occasion and better ourselves.

Tuesday, October 12, 2010

Ice Holdz Petzl Ergo Gear Review

It's Time
I was fortunate enough to finish my training wall this summer and put up some Ice Holdz in conjunction with a new upside down stein pull hold that I created in order to get ready for the upcoming Mixed Rock and Ice World Cup Competitions in Asia and Europe. As well, I was able to preview some of Petzl's latest creations, the new Ergo Ice Tool.

Having used the tools of the Jedi Master's, the Nomic, for the past several years for personal use and in competitions, I wondered how much more radical a tool could get. A new tool should not compromise performance on mixed terrain (rock, moss, plastic, wood, etc.) while staying true to ease of throwing into ice. This is sometimes a hard balance to create. The ERGO tool is clearly the next stage in the mixed climbing arena.

I was able to use this tool on real rock at a local climbing crag in Albuquerque, NM as well as on my wall throwing into Ice Holdz. It definitely takes some getting used to in the trust department, but the tool clearly holds on better to dime edges and complex holds than any tool I have used before. Moreover, when punching into an upside down stein pull, you are able to get higher (placing more leverage on the hold), allowing a longer throw afterward. This is a huge advantage. I'm still learning with these tools, but I think they will be the number one arrow in my quiver this year when I hit the mixed terrain.

Check them out and put yours on order at the Strike Rescue Store
http://store.strikerescue.com/store.php?crn=242&rn=492&action=show_detail

For Ice Holdz, well, check out the video and you be the judge. These holdz are great practice for throwing into real ice. The y work best in moderate temperatures and are awesome for preseason training. Even having 4-6 of these holdz will greatly diversify your training. Mentally, it switches your focus from rock holds to having to swing into ice. They're easy to mount onto your home wall or gym. They're not that expensive and for what you get out of them you'll be happy you have some to train on.


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Wednesday, June 16, 2010

Physician Assistant life, MRA Conference - speaker on Naica, Las Cuevas


Thoughts on the Medical System

This last month was good to get back into the medical role once again. The medical world and the role of a physician assistant (PA-C), are always changing in some ways, and in other ways it will always remain the same. Working with people that have medical ailments is a passion for me and I like to help when and however I can.

The part I find most disturbing is that the corporate machine is "business as usual" and people, the patient, is still just another piece of meat that there is no compassion for. I can understand how the medical system is in trouble as there seems to be a delicate balance to keep it all together. I don't believe that government bailouts are an answer to any problem.

Programs that support children are always good. Programs that enable people who could otherwise work long term are bad. The abuses on all ends are atrocious. Its difficult to think that by acting locally, that things can change, but we all have to do our part.

I talked with Dr. Tryon a bit and found out that he has a custom group of people that he follows. He's checked out of the main stream and abandoned Medicare for his practice. He's essentially a "hired gun patient advocate." Truly, if you are in a hospital and don't have an advocate, you will have a harder time. There is value in having an on-call care provider 24/7, and someone who knows you well.

My advice is to stay healthy, exercise regularly (never stop), don't eat bad food, and be nice to your fellow human.

Moreover, I'm wondering about how medicine and SAR are converging. People are now being charged for SAR costs, much like they are for medical bills. Does the State have an obligation to pay for these costs, does the State have an obligation to charge for SAR services? Are there other alternatives ? Volunteerism does not seem to be enough. There are fewer and fewer volunteers in these times of economic difficulty. Those who are new to SAR do not have any skills since the programs for kids are fewer. Kids are interested in instant gratification since that's that we are training them to do. Interesting chain of events.



National Mountain Rescue Conference, Juneau, AK 2010

Click to follow link

With over 90 government authorized units in the US, Canada and other countries, the Mountain Rescue Association (MRA) has grown to become the critical mountain search and rescue resource in the United States.

The National Spring Conference 2010 is being held in Juneau, Alaska and I've been asked to present as the keynote speaker, presenting on a recent National Geographic expedition to Mexico that Strike Rescue was contracted to do. Although I have done many presentations over the years, I have not been a keynote speaker before. This should be exciting.


Cueva de los Cristales (a.k.a., Fortress of Solitude)


The topic I'm speaking on is Heat Illness. I've learned more about the effects of heat through the doctoral Exercise Science program that I am in at the University of New Mexico. This information will be coupled with the trials of running an expedition 300 meters underground and at temperatures of 48 C and humidity of 90-95%. There's no escape and there's no help if something goes wrong, so there's no room for error.

I came up with some tricks to manage this environments and the physiological issues surrounding them as well as some non-traditional ways of getting in and out to help mitigate the risk. Hope to see you at the conference !

National Geographic will unveil our expedition later this year and it promises to be exciting !

Sunday, May 9, 2010

AMGA Ski Mountaineering Guides Exam 2010 (cont)

Alaska - Girdwood and Hatcher Pass 2010

It's been a long process, but this video pretty much sums it up:
Beverly Hattrup American Mountain Guides Association Ski Mountaineering Guides Exam 2010

It's been a long road and we actually aren't told if we've passed or not until at least two weeks after the exam. So, all of the candidates will be on pins and needles until the results come out. I felt pretty good throughout the exam and I was able to glean a lot of great information from the examiners and friends on the exam.

Enjoy the video.

Marc

Sunday, April 18, 2010

Alaska AMGA Ski Mountaineering Exam

Back on the road again. this time it's to Hatcher Pass and Turnagain Pass in Alaska to take the (hopefully) last of my AMGA exams, the Ski Mountaineering Guides Exam. It's a grueling process and a tough exam not only to take, but also to prepare for. Up to this point I've invested thousands of hours to getting to this point, where I'm feeling like I meet the international guiding standard.

I've been previewing the areas and have been fortunate enough to ski with Ed and Erin at Hatcher Pass. Ed runs Hatch Your Trax web site and has posted one of my videos to show how brutal the conditions can be for some, but also how good it can be !

The stability of the snowpack is in general Poor at Hatcher, so I went to Girdwood to check out Turnagain Pass. Unfortunately, it's been raining for 4 days now...snow in the highlands, but you have to get there starting from about 1000' where the stability is mostly Good.

Sitting around the coffee house perfecting my bookwork for the exam, I've had a chance to work with Tyler Jones, another exam candidate. It's been a good time and we are pretty much ready for everything except poor visibility. Someone please invent goggles that pierce the fog so we can see where we're going ! Better yet, make a set that also picks out where the avalanche trigger points are so we can ski around them !

Hope to have a "happy ending" out here in AK ! I'm sure I'll learn more from our instructors/evaluators than they will form any of us. Still, we are trying to impress them with all of our best skills and guiding techniques.

Thursday, March 18, 2010

Russian Video of the World Ice Competition

Alexey Dengin from Team Russia put this video together of their tour of the IWC. I suppose we should do something like this, but I just haven't had the time. Enjoy !
Ice Club 2010



Thursday, March 4, 2010

New Mexico - Pecos Wilderness Back Country Skiing East Face Santa Fe Baldy and Penitente Couloir

Barely having enough time to take a breath in between avalanche courses, I was able to get out for a big day in the Pecos Wilderness. There were a couple of ski shots that I had my eye on for several years and really didn't have anyone who had the time or interest to go out with me, especially since I'm kind of a short notice personal trip taker in light of everything else going on.

On the way back from teaching a Southwest Adventure Guides Level 2 avalanche course in Silverton, Colorado at the end of February, I asked Justin Spain if he was off on a Tuesday and if he would be interested in going to do a couloir and a fairly big and committing face on a long back country ski tour. He of course was psyched to go and asked what the plan was. I let him in on the scheme and we packed bags and got up early the day of the tour.

The tour started at Santa Fe Ski Area. We hiked up and over Deception Peak, then over to Lake Peak. The snow filled in a majority of the gaps that usually make for interesting rock climbs and bouldering problems. Overhanging corninces lined the ridge all the way to Penitente Peak and the lee sided aspect produced small slab avalanches during the storm. We cut through a cornice between Deception and Lake Peaks and it initiated a small avalanche that went down into the Santa Fe watershed. It's looking like the people of greater Santa Fe will be able to drink water this year since there is a large amount of snowpack in the watershed !


We hiked down the east ridge of Lake Peak and towards Penitente Couloir (I'm callnig it that since it's on the way to Penitente Peak, but it's kind of a misnomer since the couloir is actually on the Lake Peak massif). After a hundered feet of post holing down from the summit we put skis on and made our way to the couloir notch.

The notch was inviting and a good ingress into the couloir was a bit of a skiing jump into a vacated fetch zone. I realized that the fetch was devoid of snow, right down to the ground, so I nixed the plan to jump in and take a few turns to the left in an anticipatory effort to ski cut the top of the wind slab. I'm glad I didn't since the wind slab was bullet hard underneath a few cm of newer snow. So, I hiked up and gained a nice ski entrance on the wind slab higher up and to the East side of the notch. It worked great and I was happy that my edges were carving well along the 52 degree slope of the drum-tight snow that was compacted by angry winds from the North. The fetch that had no snow took up 50% of the entrance, so the turns were limited by that distance. Nonetheless, I was able to get down the couloir in good style and gain softer snow 20m down. The remainder of the turns were fantastic.


Turning out underneath a rock band, I was able to stop midway down the slope and wait for Justin who had made his entrance along with me just to get past the first 20m and get established into the couloir. We snapped some photos of this spectacular couloir and had a great time laying tracks all the way down and into more open terrain.

From the bottom of Penitente Couloir we skinned and skied down to the Windsor Trail and then up to Puerto Nambe where we caught the Skyline Trail up to Windy Point. The valley fog that was covering Santa Fe all morning was a result of the 8cm of dense snow that had fallen the day before. Rime ice was plastered all over the rocks, trees and escarpments at tree line and into the alpine terrain above 12,000 feet elevation. The fog moved in as we started up the Skyline Trail, which was perfect since it shaded us from the sun. The short wave radiation was bouncing off the cirrus clouds and had already heated up the dense snowpack to where the moisture easily stuck onto our ski skins. I broke out a bar of skin wax that seemed to help a little bit, but the snow was changing to slush so fast that it was becoming nearly futile to travel since the weight of the snow under the skis was taking a toll quick. The only cure was to advance to a higher elevation where the snow was colder, and so we did.

Windy Point had the sign for Baldy and we looked up through the clouds. A surreal landscape of large cliff faces separated by long vertical snowfields intermittently shined through the whisking clouds as they rolled from around the ridge and across the East Face of Santa Fe Baldy.


Large cornices poised like sentinels ran the length of the East Face ridge. No ski tracks were seen, but I had found out that there were some other travelers that passed through prior to the storm that had taken their turn, but now there was sign of them being there, making it feel quite remote for New Mexico.

Justin took the lead and got us to the summit in short order. We eyed the descents into the Lake Kathryn area and decided that those lines would have to be saved for another day. The East Face was too inviting.





Pulling out my cordalette, we decided that we were going to cut a cornice and let it drop onto the slope below to see how the snowpack would behave and if there would be any slab avalanche danger. I stepped 1.6 meters from the edge of the cornice and it promptly broke at 1.5m back. One of my skis was in the air, the other with 20cm behind the fracture and I was able to jump back while holding on to the cordalette and Justin giving me a quick belay. That boy sure is getting fast with the belay ! The cornice broke out some 6-7m along the ridge as it was quite undercut and heavy. It pummeled onto the slope below and triggered a small, slow moving slab that ended up entraining a large amount of wet avalanche debris that went nearly all the way to the bottom of the face over a very long minute. Although the snow wasn't moving fast, and the debris would not have really buried a skier, it could have knocked a skier or snow boarder down and carried them a long way.

I looked across the slope and saw where the other crew had entered the East Face. It looked like they did a ski cut right underneath the largest set of cornices and above a cliff band. I wondered if they had triggered an avalanche if they wouldn't still be there when we arrived a few days later. It seemed like a risky entrance where they cut across the underbelly of the gargoyles that overshadowed the cache of good skiing below.

We then cut another cornice and got the same results. I figured we could get into the East Face shot by hacking away at a cornice and making a realistic entrance and then making a drop entrance and onto the 62 degree face to make a coule of turns and gain a nice protected saddle where a broken vertical ridge running up the East Face doesn't quite meet the summit ridge.

The turns were better than I had imagined and were quite easy, but an aggressive mindset is what gets one onto the boiling plate, so I jumped in with my torso forward and skis parallel to the slope. A couple quick turns let the remaining snow slide and I stopped to let it go by.



Then, Justin jumped in and set up next to me. We skied the turns that only come in a dream. The could had parted and a nearly blue sky gave us the pat on the back as we skied onto more gentle grade of low 40s, then upper 30s. We started out in the debris and then moved our way out into the open slope once the angle subsided and risks abated with each turn.



Justin took a near perfect line the entire fall line. I moved over at the half way point to another slope and ripped through the snow on a small ridge on a rock back and then to more open gladed terrain and met him at the bottom where a piece of cornice had rolled all the way to the bottom, nearly 1,200' down.

We laughed in amazement at the quality of line that this was and realized that THIS is what memories are made of.



We took out our lunches and had a great bite to eat on a large flat granite rock. Then, we skinned up our skis and hiked back to the ridge. It wasn't over yet. We had to use ski crampons to make our way to the South Ridge, but it was worth it since we had a clear shot on corn snow all the way back down to Puerto Nambe. We left big deep turns in the open trees for nearly 1,000'.

Once at Puerto Nambe we augmented our plans to return back over Lake Peak via Penitente and just opt for the Windsor trail egress. IT was a great day and we didn't feel like we needed to push it along any more.

We celebrated with margaritas and Mexican food at Maria's in Santa Fe. I'm glad that I have an opportunity in my life to share my experiences with an up-and-coming mountain guide like Justin. Enough can't be said about having a good partner on high adventure outings. Solid teamwork with good methods for attaining shares goals is a fortunate circumstance that should not be taken for granted. I'm fortunate to have friends like him and can't wait to get out there once again with them to make more great memories !

That's what dreams are made of.

Wednesday, March 3, 2010

New Routes in Ouray - No Longer Your Father's Poser's Lounge


After getting back from Europe, I went to see Jason and Lisa Nelson up in Ouray, Colorado. Jason and I headed out to get more mixed climbing in before the season draws to a close. As fate would have it, Jason and I got in one day of climbing together before we decided that there needed to be some more new mixed lines in the Poser's Lounge on the way to Camp Bird.

Check out Jason's new write-up


We established a couple of new lines. The first is a major extension to Troglodyte. It now goes all the way to the top where the Goldline anchors are. The next is a traversing linkup that starts on Troglodyte, then crosses through the crux of Goldline and then past Fist Full of Steel, then finishes on Cinnamon and Cider. Although I'm not sure how hard these lines are since ratings to me are now in a contrived state, then climbing is fun.

Thanks to Clint Cook for letting us borrow his drill (I left mine at home) and to Bill Leo from Ouray Mountain Sports (OMS) for letting us spend some cash to get bolts and hangers on-demand!

I hope everyone gets a chance to get on these routes.

SKIING is the paradoxical universe that I live in. I"ll post something here as soon as I can get the photos up and modified.

Friday, February 12, 2010

European Wrap-up


Photo: Stelian Pavalache

Aside from all the new friends made, experience gained from going to all the World Competitions (including Rabenstein), and finding a way home through winter storms and airport closures, I sit down with a Starbucks at the airport and wonder "what just happened?" The whole trip flashed right by and I'm a month and a half older and already making plans for the remainder of the winter. Skiing is on the docket and I have 3 more avalanche courses to teach at Red Mountain Pass and in NM. In April, I'm gearing up for Alaska once again, this time for the AMGA Ski Mountaineering Guides Exam.

Here's some great images from Lukaz:

http://lwimages.ifp3.com/root/lwimages/iphoto/main2.cfm

Although the Ice World Ice Climbing Competitions remind me a lot of a traveling circus in many ways, it was enthralling to see so many new places, meet great people, and learn new skills. It's a highly demanding circuit. Those who wish to compete in only one or two competitions get a taste of the tour, but I feel that having stayed and competed in a11 of the competitions including both difficulty and speed has given me some insight on the training and mandates of the style of climbing necessary to be competitive in that venue. Most of the time it's a "downer" for the athletes since only one person can win. But even then, the winner knows that they could have done better. It's always that way. We know we can push ourselves, but its the times when we exceed our own expectations that we as athletes revel in the moment. That's the time when it all comes together and the stars align and our performance becomes memorable. We live for those times and anticipate their existence in our future. Experiencing a moment like this is what keeps us going.

I'm already building my own training facility to work on this and hope that I can interest some other good mixed ice climbers to train hard and become a competitor. The UIAA will be working with the Olympic Committee and will hopefully turn this into an Olympic event.

As it stands, there will be 5 World Cups next year. The sport is growing and there is interest in holding a World Cup in the USA. If you are interested in helping out, please contact me. Sponsors, athletes, and others interested in making this happen should join forces. The North Americans will need to train hard if we are to be competitive.

In the meantime, I'm glad to be back home in NM and am looking forward to getting in some more skiing, climbing, and getting back to feeling "normal" in this time zone for a while. I'll be back in school this semester as well and can't wait to start using the thinking side of my brain for a while. I'm hoping to get some good research going with the Exercise Science department.

I'll have to go through all the photos that Justin compiled while we were on the trip. I don't think I've seen many of them, we just shot first and will look later.

Snow on !

Sunday, February 7, 2010

UIAA European Open Ice Speed Climbing Competition in Romania

2/7/2010

Finishing up the 2010 Ice World Cup Circuit

So all of the preparation, planning, logistics, and thrill of competing in the World Cups in all the venues that we’ve been to over the last month and a half have been…extraordinary. The Euros like that the underdog Americans have made an appearance. Justin and I have been interviewed by media at every event. It’s intimidating since none of the Americans have ever made much of a presence in Europe.

I’ve learned so much in such a short period of time. New friends have been made, new connections with climbers from all over Europe and Asia have been established, and I had the opportunity to see many places and cultures that I have wanted to see since I was a kid. I have been encouraged and inspired by some of the world’s best mixed rock and ice climbers. The blood lines of experience from many of the original competitors have been passed down to the next generations of climbers that we are competing with. Markus Bendler learned to climb hard mixed lines and was trained by Harry Berger who I have also climbed with in Ouray, Colorado in past years. There’s less than 3 degrees of separation many times as this is a small community.

There is a lot of energy to get a World Competition in the United States. All of the competitors and UIAA Organizers have been very positive about the USA presence on this entire circuit. They feel that it makes for a more international competition. Furthermore, it validates their Olympic movement. There is a lot of energy being put into mixed climbing becoming a venue at the Winter Games. This may not happen in my lifetime of being a competitor, but perhaps I am contributing in some way to make this happen. Both Justin and I are interested in putting together a circuit of sorts in the USA. I have been told that I have two months to tell Urs (the Swiss coach representing the Ice Climbing Federation) if it might be possible to position a mock World Competition in the USA for next year. Although I am excited about the prospect to put an event on, I also realize the implications of taking on such a task from my experience with the Ouray Competitions in the past.

Therefore, I think it is prudent to call on anyone who thinks they have a possible venue, organizational structure in place, and the interest to consider hosting this type of event. I would be more than happy to have a lengthy discussion with those who would like to contribute. Justin and I have some great ideas, but we would need a lot of help to accomplish something of this magnitude.

An event like this in the USA means something different for every individual person. I can’t see anything bad about an event like this on a personal note and I have a laundry list of how it can be a good and positive thing not only for the general ice climbing community and those in the industry, but also for the USA.




We didn’t attend the competition for the finals. Rather, Malcolm drove Urs, Leight, Justin, and me 40km to the north on a mountainous, winding, and snow packed icy road to the north to visit the castle of Dracula. Yes, we learned all about the history and creation of Dracula on a cold, dark, blizzarding day in the Transylvanian Alps. The drab mid-century décor of the castle, along with the foreign feeling was good enough to have some Halloween-style fun. I couldn’t help but think about how many people had been killed with sharp tools in and around the Braun Castle, and now here we are to compete in an athletic event, having a different way to use our sharp tools, and nobody dies. What a concept!

I do know that when we got back and saw the finals, this is what Markus Bendler looked like as the 2010 overall Ice World Champion !!! This guy is a MACHINE I say...maybe he's a Terminator.



Back to Skiing!

Well, we’re in Romania and its puking snow. We competed in the UIAA Open European Championship – Romania. It was laden with Russians and they really wanted us to compete to “make it more interesting.” Ya, it was interesting all right. I missed my first round of climbing out of 5 chances and also got no practice or warm-up before having to climb. I pulled the picks right out of the ice with my Russian-made fifi ice axes on the first round. The second round went better since I made it to the top. I just wanted to get up the thing for a change without the ice breaking. Then, a Bulgarian put a ice tool through his thigh. He was bleeding and limping. There’s really nowhere for someone to get medical care here, but a family doctor was present at the ski are base and came over to take a look. She said to just leave it alone. I told the competitor that I would suture him up for free if he would like, and he agreed. I left the competition and took him into the Red Cross aid room where I was able to break out my medical kit, do a proper job stitching his leg back together, and returning him to the event.

Fortunately, I didn’t miss my turn, so I got a chance to climb again and this time I reached the top. Sweet! Only more than half as fast as the Russians, but I made it. It’s all I can do to get up the climbs without gacking myself in the legs or piffing myself with a crampon tip. I blame my weight pulling the ice apart, but I’m sure it’s my technique that holds me back. I just don’t have a lot of interest in speed climbing because it’s just a side show to the main circus event for me, the difficulty competition, and a way to have some fun. I don’t take it seriously enough to be a real competitor, yet I’ve scored higher in speed climbing than I have in difficulty. What’s up with that?

After today we’re hitting the slopes on our way back to Bucharest.
With all the snow that is falling over the last two days it might be possible that there could be some good skiing available. There’s some quite steep terrain around, up to 60°, or so we’ve heard. There’s not much in the way of rentals here. They have no telemark equipment anywhere, so Leigh will have to learn how to turn with her heels locked down. There’s no touring equipment available for rent either so I guess we’re not heading out to the back country.

I'm ready for some green chili chicken enchiladas!

Thursday, February 4, 2010

Romania

2/4/2010
Italy to Romania

Levaing Rabenstein was difficult. The logistics were easy enough to go, but after having a great experience being able to climb on the structure and having made friends with a few of the Russians and gleaning some technique tips from them, the long trip to Romania ahead was the “down” part of the emotional roller coaster on this ice climbing competition tour.It’s true, there’s a lot of highs and lows throughout the competition. The experience is overwhelming at times and I’m sure that it will take some time for it all to sink in.

We made it out of Italy and flew into Romania where we met Pavel Shabalin, one of the UIAA Competition Judges. Myself, Pavel, Justin, and Leigh all took the train(s) to Busteni together. We had some great complex discussion about the competition and its organization, the athletes and their backgrounds, and shared a few war stories of ice climbing. Pavel drew some pictures of the Russian words I was trying to learn and wrote them out in both Russian and English. “Cat”, “spoon”, “potatoes”, and “cup” sound very similar. The language is complex to be sure, but not nearly as bizarre as Chinese is to both of us ! We were invited to come and train in Moscow and Kirov in the future. Pavel is one of the main coaches of the Russian Federation team. That’s a pretty nice honor.

The train ride into Busteni reminded us all of the train ride to Kirov, but it was definitely not the same. It was only two hours to get there. The exchange rate is about 3.5 Lei = 1 USD. Some things are cheap, and some things cost the same. Busteni is a bustling ski town that is cheap to stay in for the most part. There’s a lot of youth mixed in with the older generation. There’s lots of 1950’s architecture, but more style than what we saw in Russia. Maybe the Romanians were not in as much a hurry to get things built after World War II. Anyway, Busteni is a great little town, nestled up against the Transylvanian Alps. It’s a ski town too with the Kalinderu Ski Area gaining nearly 1300m of elevation right out of town. They claim 40% advanced ski terrain. I’ll have to partake in the assessment after the competition.

I took breakfast at a small restaurant the first morning here and was able to order an omelet! We tried to order scrambled eggs in Milan and they wanted to charge us 42Є (that’s about $75 USD). I think we could have bought a few chickens and scrambled our own, in addition to whatever else. Anyway, I took a walk in the first proper snow storm I have been in since arriving in Europe, and made my way to the ski area where the new climbing structure is located for our competition.

This structure is quite impressive. It looks like the U2 concert stage from this year. It has three arched legs supporting a horizontal keystone ring at the top that a modular climbing wall can be created and dismantled quickly in order to make any combination or series of climbing. It’s the 4th dimension!

Competition head. After having climbed in Rabenstein, I finally feel like I have a clue as to how the climbing behaves, some of the intricacies of the style and technique, as well as gaining some confidence. On-sighting an M12 finals route is difficult to say the least but I’m feeling like I can piece it together now. Time is the major influecial factor. It drives the decisions made while climbing. Going fast is prudent, but going too fast is careless. The Korens lost the last competition in Saas-Fee this year because of a careless mistake.

Markus Bendler has swept the continent clean of all the major ice climbing competitions. He would not have to even show up or compete in Romania since he has so many points, and is already the undisputed World Champion…again. Nobody has ever heard of him in the USA. I guarantee that once he makes his way across the pond, he will be on the front cover of any given magazine. He’s also a very nice guy. He signs autographs and poses for photos with kids who look up to him. He is a European hero. It makes me wonder why Americans idolize professional athletes from baseball, football, and basketball. Most of them are a bunch of creeps who hardly give a kid the time of day.



There’s just a few days left. Inscription of the athletes starts today and the competition is going to be shown on Romanian National tv as well as streamed live via internet:
http://www.evenimentelive.ro/iwcbusteni.html
Check it out if you’re bored at 2 am in the Rocky Mountains. This event is represented by 32 countries and is on the Olympic scale. I’m daunted by that fact, but I’m also willing to give it my best shot. There was a point where Justin and I had discussed bailing out and going to Chamonix to ski, but we pulled our shit together, got our chin up, and are ready to give it all we got. I’ll pull my bicep from my humeral head before I come off that wall tomorrow.

Tuesday, February 2, 2010

After the Ice Fight

1/31/2010 - 2/01/2010

So it finally happens. One of the Russians that I was trying to talk to in Saas-Fee opened up and started talking to me more in Rabenstein. He clammed up in Switzerland after I wasted him in a foosball game during an athlete meeting, called me "professional", and walked away. But he came around again in Rabenstein and has been working on communications again. In fact, Alexi is a very nice guy and is quite fluent in English, although not so much after a long day and in the evening. That’s when he starts teaching me Russian. He’s also kind of a Patrick Swazey knock-off, especially at first glance.

Beyond that, he’s also helping Justin and me with our climbing techniques. The World Cup "Ice Competition" is definitely more about circus tricks than actual ice climbing. He’s been standing on the podium periodically in the World Competition circuit over the years and was taught how to climb by his father at the age of 4. He started to compete at about the age of 16 and has been in the circuit ever since. Luda, his girlfriend is also as impressive as a climber and her English is the best of all 16 Russians. She is also very nice and helpful and has opened up to us as well by using her fluency in English. We climbed with them for two days after the competition.

In Rabenstein the Americans and the Russians stayed in the same hotel. Most of the Russians that have talked to us to this point have only used communication for a means of obtaining information. These two have made a concerted effort on their part and we wound up spending a lot of time with them climbing as well as hanging around the hotel and sharing stories, music, and jokes.

Climbing in Rabenstein after everyone had left was a boon for Justin and I. We were able to get more time on the climbing structure there than anywhere else, getting us precious contact time with the climbing medium as well as a good workout, things we have not been able to do since we are on the road all the time and are without a home base. 45 degree over hanging terrain on sparse holds that demand good body mechanics, technique, and power is exactly what the Physician Assistant ordered.
The men’s and women’s finals routes were still up and so that what a mix of Slovenians, Russians, and Americans climbed together. I brought Justin’s speakers and iPod to make things a bit more exciting. The Tomalov brothers and Luda definitely produced by skipping holds on the routes haphazardly and seeing what they could do and how far they could go between holds.

Leigh got to do some ice climbing on the sometimes more than vertical ice on two of the towers. One of the routes was out speed competition route. Justin ran a few laps on the ice as well. I did the men’s semi finals route, the women’s finals route (with one cold hang to rewarm my hands) and got it on the second try on the first day (and straight away on the second day), and then tried to roll up the men’s final route, only to break the fourth hold. So, we called it a day, packed up our stuff and hiked the 2km and 300m elevation back up to our awesome accommodations.

This is the Tyrol region and there are many cables crossing the valley that transport milk, hay, and supplies to and from the ranch houses high above. The cows are free to roam in the summer, but are kept inside large barns that look like houses in the cold months. A small dairy next door to us has workers busy in the wee hours to have the milk out to Merano by 06:30 every day, snow or shine.

I’ll be sad that we have to leave this beautiful place. Although we do not have much contact with the outside world from our location of lodging, I could see how I could become entranced with this place and not ever leave. It’s a mini utopia. Having looked at the map and know that the vast mountains to the north would be a lifetime of exploring, skiing, and climbing, it's a tempting thought to just keep going. We are also very close to larger towns and accommodations, so it’s not that far out there, but it’s far enough. The Dolomites are nearby, but we aren't alpinists this trip.

Meanwhile, Justin, Leigh, and myself continue to have the conversation of “are we going to Romania or not.” Options abound for us in other known locations and we have to be cautious once there of pick-pockets, thieves, rip-off artists, etc., so we aren’t thrilled at the prospect of going. However, this is a climbing trip first and a ski trip second, then whatever after that. I know that I want to finish what I started, a tour of the World Mixed Ice Climbing Competition circuit. I would like to do my best this year at getting experience and then making a game plan to come back and do better. This is the ultimate personal goal in my life, so it’s time to make it happen. Being able to share this experience with Justin since we were training last fall has amplified the experience for me as well. Having a good committed climbing partner who is capable and easy to get along with is difficult to find. Being on the road with someone day in and day out and being as good a team as we have been is rare.

I’m really excited that he shares the same fervor for the sport. He will certainly have a different experience than I have had, but he is the next generation in the sport and has a ton of potential. Imagine, I trained him to climb mixed rock and ice at our local crag and then in less than 4 months went to Bozeman, Montana with me for his first ice competition. We took third as a team in our division. Now, he’s got the huevos to train hard and become a world competitor. Awesome.

Monday, February 1, 2010

Rabensteinäs Ice Fight 2010

Rabenstein Ice Fight 2010
1/30/2010
Go Time in Rabenstein

The amount of stress was quite low to begin with, but I also knew that this competition had pretty much the same players as the other World Competitions, it’s just not as well known or attended…yet.

The event held here is a very well run event. They have a good isolation area and have good routs set on an impressive structure. They have jerseys that we got to keep as a memoir, there are heated buildings to re-warm up in, and they made wooden slat platforms for the spectators to stand on to keep their feet warmer. They have a bar with espresso for only 1.5Є and serve great food. There’s also an ice skating rink for kids to play at.

Many of the women have black hair, and facial piercing seems to be the norm, whether it’s a nose or lip piercing, it seems that it’s vogue. The people speak Italian and German, but everyone communicates in English as the common language. That seems to be the common thread around the world.


The climb:

I came out of a quite bout in isolation (it could be up to 3 hours) and tied into the rope. The holds are a mix of granite and plastic holds. The granite holds are tricky to stay on. The ice axe must be place just-so and not waver from that position or it will pop off and you’re done. The starting wall was a mere 45° overhanging by my rough judgment. We have to start with two axes on the starting hold then bring both feet off the ground. Easy enough, but the next moves become harder and further apart. You must be able to find the next hold’s “sweet spot” that the axe will settle in on while holding your body weight on one locked-off arm in a static position. You only get a certain amount of time to climb the route, 12 minutes in this case, so you don’t have time to gain recovery by shaking out an already burning forearm pump. Moving fast is mandatory and is almost preferable to keep the “pump” at bay. Breathing is also mandatory but is easy to forget to do when you get focused on a climb and in a situation like this.

The climbing to start was actually not too bad. I’d rate it at about M9+/10- to where the ice roof started. Each hold presented a different technique to get to establish and maintain body position on. The flow from one hold to the next is a continuum of understanding not only the holds, but how the axes behave on those holds at the angle they present themselves in. In addition, you must be able to understand your body, its position on the climb, subtle motions and foot placement that so defines how the next movement will be. In a way, it’s like playing a game of chess. You have to sleuth out what the moves are in advance, pace yourself, make sacrifices when needed, and double clutch into high gear when its time.

Filled with good energy and not feeling too pumped yet, I made a move to the second to last hold before getting to the first ice roof. I was looking forward to the series of figure 4’s and figure 9’s across the ice traverse as I had gotten pretty fast at these moves and have it figured out. It was going to be a pump fest, but there was a rest on vertical terrain at the end of the traverse. I raised my left tool to place it in the last hold and my right tool popped off. I was lowered to the ground and two guys were trying fervently to untie my figure 8, the only knot allowed in competition here. I told them that “that was an American fall,” meaning that I was a mere 92kg, the biggest and heaviest ice climbing competitor they had ever seen. These small men of 60-70kg don’t set a knot that hard.

The route setter, Mario, was there as a judge and told me that I should have not set my entire tool how I did and proceeded to educate me on some of the finer points of how I should have placed it. It’s a good thing too, since that’s why I’m here, to learn and get better. We laughed together and I told him “thank you for setting the routes and inviting us to compete and that I will be back next year.”

I made it 3 slots away from qualifying from the Semi-finals, so I’m getting better in some way. Maybe I’m not as nervous and scattered, I’m finally getting over my illness that I picked up in Kirov, or I’m learning the medium, or maybe it’s some combination, but the more experience I gain it just makes me a better climber.
Leigh came between the difficulty and speed competition. She flew in and Justin set her up with a bus schedule and I was able to get someone to pick her up in Moos, Italy and bring her directly to us at the B&B. I greeted her in the bar and gave her a hug. Jet lag yet? Hmmm. Maybe tomorrow. I took her bag upstairs and Justin was quite happy to see her. We all got ready and went down to the speed climbing competition.

It was dark and they allowed us have one practice run. They clipped me in with one carabiner and I told them that we needed two. With great reluctance they produced another carabiner and clipped it in to the rope, but not to me. I made sure it was fixed and then carried on. Speed climbing up 25m of slightly overhanging ice on technical terrain of undulating ice features is not an easy task. It’s easy to piff an arm or leg with flying axes and crampons. The breaking ice is also hazardous as well as skating through and banging shins on the ice itself. “What the heck, I’m only doing it twice tonight and I’m out fo the difficulty competition” is what I told myself. Justin told me to “just have fun,” so I did.

I climbed / ran up the tower and I nearly blacked out by the time I got to the top. Our inefficiencies compared to the Russians is evident by the great time discrepancies between us, but we were there to have fun and so we did! We screamed and yelled at each other to “go faster,” “move those feet,” and whatever else we could think of. People got on our band wagon and started to cheer as well. It takes good energy to get things rolling.

After the speed competition I grabbed hold of Harold Klammer from Italy and told him I would buy him a bier (beer). He had a van and took us all back to the bar at the B&B and we had a round of Forst Bier. Somehow he manages to keep buying the beer. I don’t mind Markus Bendler buying the beer because he keeps winning the competitions and making money, but I owe him some beer too.

Both Justin and I have invited the Euros over to go climbing in the USA. We even managed to get Alexi from Russia to open up and speak a little English with us and invited him to come as well. I guess the Russians have to obtain visas in order to go anywhere outside Russia pretty much, so it’s an ordeal for them to go. There’s still a fair amount of Patriotism there too however, and most of the Russians find it a bit difficult to talk with the guys from the USA for some reason. It seems to be getting better as we are climbers, but because of the nature of the competition being just that, a competition it harbors the competitive attitude and spirit to a certain degree.

Angelika Rainier is our tour goddess behind the scenes. She had given us really good information on how to get around and has offered to take us from Rabenstein to Milan where we will be able to catch our flight to Romania. She took the first Women’s World Cup in Kirov and is a strong climber. She also works in the Department of Epidemiology in Merano, Italy full time and is able to be a strong competitor on this circuit. She trains often here in Rabenstein so it goes to figure that she has solid climbing ability.

SaasßFee to Milan

1/28/2010
Near Epic Travel
No matter how good the train system is in Europe, there’s always something that can go wrong. So I’m glad we missed the first bus out of Saas-Fee, Switzerland since that would have placed us on the first train out of Brig that derailed on its way to Milan. There also happened to be a good snow storm moving through the area with high winds. Who would have known the night before when we were at a great outdoor ski party at the base of the ski lift and where the ice skating arena is in Saas-Fee. There they had a the ski team descend the mountain with torches, a ski bunny named “Snowly,” some guy skiing with 10 foot skis, a guy skiing with a fan on his back blowing him uphill, a pyrotechnic expert with fireworks on his back, and some freeride skiers and snowboarders hitting a jump at the bottom. The show ended with a great fireworks display and a hot wine drink.
After that, a big party held at a local pub had a solo guitarist playing American classics. The crowd, most of whom could not speak English, was singing in perfect chorus the words to all the songs. How can that be? Justin and I played foosball with a family who had everyone from the daughter to the great grandparents in the bar singing, drinking “bier” and carrying on until about 23:00!
The good news in missing that train brings the bad news that the rail was then closed and we had to take a bus from Brig to Domodedossolo, Italy in order to get onto a train going to Milan. The silver lining here was that we got to go over a mountainous pass that had tons of great ice climbing in the area. In fact, there were ice climbers rappelling off the snow bridges to gain access to the climbing. There was everything from big and fat waterfall ice on low angle (easy) terrain, to the intimidating daggers that hung off the tops of caves, the kind I like to climb. This area is located right on the Swiss-Italian border. The border was easy cross since we were on the bus, but there we about 20 people standing in the cold. They had been off-loaded and were professional-looking people who were hitch hiking to Brig. With the snow storm moving in, the women with only tights on their legs looked like they were about to be in for a surprise. Cars zoomed past and only a few stopped to pick up the soon-to-be frozen white collar workers who had nothing but their briefcases.
We ate lunch before getting on the train. Inconveniently, Justin can’t eat the large array of Italian pastas, pizzas, and other gluten bearing foods, so finding a restaurant is sometimes a challenge. A gluten-free diet is a lot tastier however, and it’s good to find those places since I don’t like filling up on starch.
This part of Italy has more English-speaking people than Daone and there seems to be more money in this valley since there’s a train instead of a bus service. It’s a really nice train to boot. The bathroom looks like something off of the starship Enterprise and there’s loads of room for skis and snowboards. Justin and I were able to get in a few pull-ups, push-ups, and dips while traveling, but it’s hard to feel good when you spend all day traveling, and trying to stay hydrated and fed while making connections.
We got to a hotel and bartered with the English and Spanish-speaking man for a price. We immediately made our way into the town and found a nice pub where we got a good glass of local red wine. We ordered some meat, sausage, and I got some dumplings since it was a suggested “local favorite.” Too much starch however, and I felt bloated. Good thing I had to walk back to the flat.
The next morning we got up and went to the local open air market and bought a half a chicken each for breakfast. We are constantly faced with the anxiety and idea that because many of the competition climbers are driving to these events and staying in their vans that there are no provisions. We keep thinking that there will be no stores, no food, and possibly no water. So we bought some food for about 25-30Є and packed our stuff on the next bus to Moos, Italy.
This drive was much more exciting with the mountainous venue immediately out of Balzona. The winding road led up through northern Italian wine country on terraced terrain and scattered castles. The narrow road switched back and forth and passed through multiple snow sheds. We gazed out at the valley below and we approached snow line. The cliff bands became more prominent and the avalanche gullies were separated by housing developments and ranches. The ranches or farms that were established more than several hundred meters higher than the road had a cable guiding line going to it that provides a faster, more efficient way of transporting loads to and from the ranch house. Many of the cables were not marked and would be impossible to see from a helicopter. From my days working at Lifeguard (an air ambulance service) cables are extremely dangerous things for helicopters to fly into. So I suppose that the helo pilots know exactly what they’re doing here.
We drove into Moos and were dropped off by the bus. A man drove up who spoke no English, but called out “Marc, Justin.” We threw our stuff in his car and got his name, “Fritz.” We tried to figure out what his role in the scheme of this was and never really understood until he took us to his B&B up the valley in Rabenstein. He and his wife own and operate the B&B next to the church that overlooks the valley below. Anyone who wants to go to a really cool place to take a honeymoon vacation should go to Rabenstien, it’s quite the place.
On the way up to the B&B we stopped and took a gaping look at the massive ice tower erected between avalanche run-out zones. This tower is 25m high and is larger than the Val di Daonne structure. More technical terrain could be attached at will to in-situ anchor points.
A news crew was filming and interviewing the route setters and wanted a word with Justin and I. We obliged and so I guess we were on local Italian news as “the Americans who made it to Rabenstein!” I guess we are validating the competitions by just being here and adding credibility to the event. The newsgirl had red hair and a pierced nose and was very nice. We were a bit embarrassed to be giving a tv interview since we had not even climbed yet, and certainly weren’t the local heroes.
The Russian’s showed up in brute force and entered 13 unexpected competitors, along with 3 Ukranians. One of the Russian’s holds the world speed record. If you see these guys in action, it’s impressive. They are dead serious about speed climbing. They train for it and have specialized equipment and study the techniques. The funny thing about a speed competition is that it is something that has no practicality outside of the competition. I would never climb that fast on real ice because of the high risk of falling or getting injured. I must admit, it’s a fun competition. Where else can you use axes like a ninja and run up water that’s frozen vertically like Jackie Chan? Justin and I have a good time doing it.

Wednesday, January 27, 2010

Glacier Skiing in Switzerland




1/27/2010
The Day Off
I’m finally taking a day off from skiing and ice climbing and getting busy with standard work issues that have been put on the table and not dealt with. We’re packing it up in Saas-Fee and getting ready to head out on the busses and trains of Switzerland and Italy to make our way to Rabenstein for the next climbing competition, locally known as the “Ice Fight.” It’s by invitation only and we are fortunate enough to be invited!
This is that part of traveling that’s a drag. Packing everything up and waiting for the next movement. My next movement is a series of pull-ups, dead hangs, front levers, and hanging crunches off the balcony. It’s hard to stay in shape on this circuit for the Americans, as I’ve already stated.
Yesterday was fortuitous, as we ran into the staff over at the Mountain Guides’ office and the girl there told us that they are having a town party with skiers carrying backpacks on fire coming down the mountain. I guess this is a good photography opportunity in any regard. There’s always something going on at the ski area.
I was able to fulfill my requisite days of skiing complex glaciated terrain and made my personal descents as well. Justin was a trooper and tolerated my wanting to drop in on some big terrain. Good thing he’s got faith in me! We did a great ski tour down a 46 degree slope with waist deep powder for about 200m that gave way to the moat around the glacier. It was covered with scant snow bridges, so it got exciting for a moment as I made my way out onto the glacier. I probed out a nice are to belay Justin from and had him cross the snow bridges. Once on the main body of the glacier we enjoyed another 1300m of glaciated powder and then skied to Saas-Fee.
We’re looking forward to Leigh Caswell coming out to join us from the “505” (New Mexico). I keep trying to get this girl to get busy on the mixed ice climbing since she’s so inherently strong and has ability to do well. Maybe seeing the next two competitions will inspire her to crank hard! Leigh is also the President of the Alb. Mountain Rescue Team now. She’s doing some really good things for the team and is a visionary for the future of how rescue will actually be done in Abq. – a pretty big task to say the least. Anyway, I hope she has a great trip out and it’s going to even more fun with more of a crew from back home to travel with! We’re all looking forward to skiing in Italy near the Dolomites as well.

Tuesday, January 26, 2010

Quick vid to entertain

Gordon made this with video that I shot of him climbing during the ice competition.


It gives a pretty good overall show of the ice comp. Good to have you out, Gordon - hope you have a safe trip home and hope to catch up to you in Canada for some ice climbing !

And check this out...it gets intense.

non-HIPPA related med report


1/23/2010
26 y/o male c/o finger laceration secondary to a speed ice climbing competition event:
The patient was able to rip the protective leather finger off the third digit of the glove and still create a full thickness laceration. The finger of the glove was still on the ice pick what the subject was lowered to the ground.
Mild hemorrhage was immediately controlled by the patient and then myself since I was present and witnessed the event (have it on video).
The patient was prepped and draped in a non-sterile fashion in a Swiss climbing bar with a dirt floor in Saas-Fee only 20 paces from the ice climbing event. No local anesthesia was used, but the patient enjoyed general anesthesia effect from the multiple alcoholic beverages that were given him by the locals who insisted he partake in the festivities at the time of being provided acute medical care.
The patient was taken to a Red Bull table in the bar where the best light was. Hemostatis was achieved by using a finger tourniquet. Irrigation of the would using the tap water out of my Camelback in my Avalung backpack was the only water available. Power irrigation was achieved using a 10cc spring loaded syringe and 18ga angiocather from my trauma kit in my backpack. My First Assist, Malcolm Kent (another athlete) was able to maintain control of the water supply.
The 1cm x 0.5 cm 90 degree angular full thickness laceration to the 3rd digit on the medial side of the right hand is located between the DID and PIP. Exploration showed no deeper structure involvement and the patient had good motor and sensory distally. No tendinous involvement.



Multiple photographs from by-standers were being taken but the flashes did not interrupt or hinder care. Red Bull and Vodka and Rum and Coke drinks had to be removed from the table several times throughout the procedure.
No gloves were able to be used and no drapes were available. So, I used sterile 4x4 gauze as a drape and sprayed my fingers down with the water irrigation solution.
5.0 Prolene was used to place three interrupted sutures and close the wound. The tourniquet was released and a sterile bandage was placed over the wound site. The last suture was difficult to place since the bar lowered the lights and the band started to play rock and roll with the speakers being right next to the table.
No splint was available besides bar straws, so I just advised the patient to try and keep the finger straight and refrain from flexing.
The crowd cheered when we were finished and the Americans stayed at the party.
I will be following the patient since he is my roommate and I’ll be skiing with him for the next 3 days and ice climbing with him for the next two weeks at the World Competition circuit throughout Europe. I will make sure that the stitches stay in longer if he is placing more force on them than necessary while ice climbing/skiing.

1/26/2010
Day three after the incident, the patient shows me his wound and it appears to be weeping with subsequent sticking to the bandage. I placed a small amount of Neosporin ointment near the wound and re-bandaged with an American Flex-fabric Band-Aid. The wound looks good and there’s no sign of infection.
Will consider taking out the stitches after the Rabenstien Ice Fight competition in northern Italy.

NOW THAT's what friends are for !

Monday, January 25, 2010

1/24/2010 -1/25/2010
Monster skiing in Saas-Fee
Saas-Fee to Saas-Almagel and more…
The last two days have been amazing in the ski department. Skiing off-piste terrain within a ski area on glaciers is super fun. I was able to log 7100m of downhill skiing with the Swiss Guides and we had some high-end clients from the good-old USA. They were from Backcountry Magazine and doing a photo shoot, so we were able to ski some good steep terrain and through a load of complex glaciated terrain.
We did a series of descents including skiing to another town…again. This route is part of the Haute Route that goes to Chamonix, France. Justin and I skied some of this the other day when we toured to Zermatt. Once we arrived on the main road in Saas-Amagel we were able to call for a taxi ride back to Saas-Fee. Easy.
I got a great workout in and am looking forward to one more day of skiing.
Meanwhile, Justin and I are trying to put the plans together for our egress from Saas-Fee and onto Rabenstein for yet another ice climbing competition. As competitors from the USA, we’ve been well received to a “locals” competition and we are really excited about it.
I think my hair is getting longer as the weeks go on. There’s too much going on and there’s hardly time to spend on the loads of things that usually hang over my head.
Gordon McArthur from Canada has already come and gone and should be getting home sometime tomorrow. The time is flying and our World Ice Climbing competition circuit has taken on a life of its own. It’s nothing like competing in Ouray where there is only one long weekend. Our circuit is a serious road trip.

Saturday, January 23, 2010

Saas-Fee Ice Climbing Competition 2010

1/22/2010

World Mixed Ice Climbing Competition number THREE !

The Saas-Fee Ice climbing competition is a stupendous even that I was glad to be a part of. The difficulty competition was a great event and well organized while being in one of the most high-energy areas I’ve ever seen.
I felt really good in the isolation booth and got a good warm-up. There’s a lot of anxiety in there with all the athletes trying to get good head space. Some stayed out of the heated booth, some had headphones, some slept, and others sat or paced around, pretty much par for the course. A doctor doing some research by polling the athletes was the only other point of note.
The only issue I had was that the media, wherever they were from, were so intrusive that they were pushing me out of the way to get video coverage of either Markus Bendler or some other well known local athlete. The cameraman was pushing me out of the way when we went to the preview the qualification route.
I was still pretty nervous before going to compete, but I knew that I would feel better once I tied into the rope and got going. It’s good to get some competition experience in a short period of time, and that’s what I was after on this trip. Ya, I’m and “old guy” at 39, but it’s been something on my tick list for years, finally making the dream come true.
Putting on my boots was painful as I had blisters on my heels from the ski tour to Zermatt with the rental boots. I waddled out into the Ice Dome and took a look at the route. I couldn’t wait to get onto the ice so that I could relieve the pressure from my heels.
There were two qualification routes and half the men athletes were assigned to mine. I also knew that for me to make the Semi-Finals round would be a tall order since I had a stacked field of heavy hitters. It was going to be a push, but the climbing looked fun and doable. The whole thing was son live video internet stream, so lots of friends and family were able to watch if they were up early or cared.
The first steps up the ice were easy and then the transition to an overhanging ice feature. I was able to cruise the figure 4’s and 9’s to gain a hold. I heel-hooked and did a mantle move to a no-hands rest. Later, Yevgenny Kryvosheytsev, a champion ice climber, told me that he was impressed with that move since I have a different climbing style, more like an alpinist, not a sport climber. The next holds were rock holds bolted onto a slightly overhanging wood structure that I was able to cruise through to gain another ice feature. The pump start coming to my arms but I knew I had to keep moving. I wasted some time at the no-hands rest taking a break and knew that I would need to move faster later. It was later and now was the time to just keep going. I made two more clips and then went into a series of futile fig 4’s and 9’s while trying to shake the pump out, but to no avail. I needed someone to chop off one of my legs so I wouldn’t weigh 92 kg anymore. My hands greased off from my tool that I left hanging in the ice.
I turned around to face the crowd and had a monster smile plastered on my face. Blank stares from the people watching told me that they definitely weren’t experiencing what I was. To them it was just another disappointment that another athlete didn’t reach to top or do something spectacular.
Moving fast is a requisite, not an option. Although I felt like this was my best performance thus far, I know that I have a long way to go before I can be a true contender, and I’m a pretty good climber back State-side, on-sighting M10, but Europe grows climbers on trees. They expose the youth to climbing and there’s full-on ice climbing camps and competitions available from the time the kids are 8 years of age, and they come out in groves. Climbing in any form is part of the fabric of the society, and is not considered outlandish or extreme like it is back home. The Russians train at a facility for mixed climbing as well as train for speed climbing. But they also have a coach and funding available, whereas, Americans (as well as some of the Europeans) are self sufficient. Sponsors help, but the amount of funding is limited, especially in the present economic environment. My vision is only that, my vision. It is something that I would love to see happen.
Anyway, I didn’t make the Semi-Finals, nor did any of the North Americans, and close doesn’t count.
The speed competition was a horrific experience in trying to shove my blistered feet back into my fruit boots. I’m so tired of getting blistered feet. Each step up the ice made back of my heels rub more against the raw skin that was already peeled down to the dermal layer, weeping and bleeding through the socks. Getting ready at the starting gate I tried to focus on the climbing and forget about the pulsing pains shooting up the back of my feet with each step. No complaining, I told myself…time to harden up! My axes continually caught or pulled through the ice and my first time was very slow. I was glad I stayed on the ice and didn’t fall off. Staying on the ice and not getting hurt is half the battle. The other half is to move fast and efficiently. For my third time speed climbing ever I wasn’t expecting too much, but I wasn’t expecting to be like that. The second round went better since I was able to suck it up, but I nearly had to roll over to where my pack was to change my shoes when I got finished climbing. Even had I made the finals, I wouldn’t have been able to climb again, it was over.
Justin Spain had a way different experience, both good and bad. The lad has a set of lungs and likely has a good VO2max and was able to make descent enough time to get him into the final round. We cheered him on with American vocality. Unfortunately, he fell off the shit pile of ice and gacked himself in the finger with a sharp speed climbing tool that took off the finger of the glove and was still sticking on the pick even after they lowered him to the ground. Seeing the piece of cloth on the pick I pretty much thought there was going to be blood, even if Justin didn’t know it yet since he would be pretty adrenalized.
Sure enough, he had a good full thickness laceration that was going to need some prompt care. Fortunately, I brought a wound and suture kit along for just the occasion. We went to the bar that was an easy 20 steps away through the plastic door. This is the famous bar that boasts a climbing traverse across the ceiling. If you and get hurt it’s your own fault. The blood poured out his finger until I placed a tourniquet on it and I was able to inspect, irrigate, and suture the wound while Justin enjoyed some free drinks from the crowd that gathered and took photos of the procedure. The lights dimmed and the band got to playing as I finished up the final stitch. Then we gathered up the Brits and got on with the party after the finals finished.
One thing I was sure to do was to tell all and any of the locals who were working the Ice Competition event was to say thanks for hosting the event. I know all too well from having worked for years at the Ouray, Colorado Ice Festival how much slave labor goes into putting something of this magnitude on. I think they appreciated the praise.

Thursday, January 21, 2010

Saas-Fee to Zermatt Ski Tour

1/20/2010
Saas-Fee to Zermatt, Switzerland ski tour
Ski touring in the Swiss Alps is a spectacular adventure and experience. It’s a big day to go from Saas-Fee to Zermatt on skis, especially on-sight. I needed to rack up a little more mock guiding time for my upcoming AMGA exam, so Justin helped be a great bro and helped me out as an acting client.
We rented our gear in Saas-Fee and the local guide’s office helped me out with a loaner shovel since I didn’t bring one to Europe. Other than that, we had the rest of the requisite equipment except for a map. The Swiss maps are among the best in the world. We went back to our hotel room and planned the route, AMGA style and no skimpy plans.
Boarding the tram and then jumping onto the Alpine Train, we were excited to get going on our journey. They stopped the train at the half-way point and we jumped off. Several other people tried to get off the train and everyone else yelled “no” to them, and they promptly got back on board since this definitely was their stop. The tunnel runs through some culverts to an electronic door. We stopped there and got geared up.
We emerged from the culverts and it was a very bright bluebird day. Looking at my log book I got our bearings and figured out which direction we needed to go. I did a quick assessment of the snowpack to ski down the first couple hundred feet that ran out onto the glacier. It was good and stable, so we made our first turns. Once on the glacier we went into roped glacier mode. The local UIAGM guide, Peter, told us that the snow bridges were not obvious and were also weak and that it was easy to punch through into a crevasse.
Justin and I split the rope into equal amounts and we space ourselves out. The snow was completely untouched. There were no tracks whatsoever and the distances were large. The peaks were beautiful and there were no sounds except for a light breeze. The sun was strong, but a storm was coming in and would be enshrouded soon, so we soaked it up as much as we could.
We snuck around the corner of a ridge and found ourselves looking at the final skin up the next 1000m to Adler Pass. I knew we needed to stay a couple hundred meters away from the right since there was a large rock escarpment and we could be hit with a spontaneous rock volley, even though it didn’t seem likely since there was no active rock fall. However, I’ve seen large rock faces slough off several times in the past while in Chamonix. So, I started heading up a nice graded slope and promptly punched through the snow into a small crevasse. My skis were not parallel to the crevasse and I popped though easily. I yelled out to Justin, “heads up” and I fell into my armpits. Being able to lean back while falling in I was able to pretty much catch myself with my left arm on top of the snow and stem my knees against the walls of the slot to prevent going in any further. I told Justin, “take, take” meaning to tension the rope. He was already lying down in hockey stop position, so it wasn’t like I was going anywhere. He snapped off a couple of photos and I pulled myself out and we continued on.
We got out into the middle of the glacier where 10,000 soccer fields could be placed and made sure of our next bearing. We cruised up the Adler Pass though incandescent bled glacier fields. The last 20m to gain the saddle were a bit taxing since the wind was cold and biting. We also had to kick out of our skis and boot up that last section since the wind slab was so hard.
We stopped near the rocks at the saddle, put on another jacket layer, took the skins off our skis, got some hot tea from our thermoses, ate some food and looked out over the 3100m descent that fell away into the Zermatt valley far below the Matterhorn. The clouds were now building and the forecast was for a fresh 3-5cm of snow. We had good bearings and map coverage until we reached the Zermatt ski area(s), and made a horrible assumption, but I’ll get to that later.
From Adler Pass the first few hundred meters were icy and then gave way to a breakable crust on about a 46 degree slope until it ran out to lower angle terrain and higher quality of skiing. Another few hundred feet below that, the cash box lay waiting. The snow became stupendous and we were able to carve out great turns for 1500m on the glacier. Monster hanging glacier rose above and sat idly on top stone yet uncovered from the last ice age.
We dodged through intermittent moraine rock fields, and then finally, the snow turned into worsening conditions at about the halfway mark. We were able to follow our route for the most part, but the glacier became increasingly dry and would not only be poor skiing on ice, but would also be a potential fall hazard. We deviated slightly and the angle was too shallow to ski in the fetches where the snow was deeper. We would up skinning downhill a bit, then ran into a cliff band. We navigated it as the sun went down and wound up in the valley floor that a small creek ran down and into the ski area that we were aiming for.
Once we finally reached the ski area we were dumbfounded to find out that the only way to get from our location within the ski area to Zermatt was by train. We found a restaurant and an old man answered the door. In his broken Swiss English he was able to tell us to follow an old trail that would take us into a small village.
By headlamp we skied this trail and gained the village. From there we could only find a footpath that was located on the opposite side of the ski area. The sign for the footpath said “CLOSED.” We hiked back up hill and found a bar that was closed to ask for directions. A lady and two men opened their electronic digital locking doors and told us by really broken English that “no ski to Zermatt…trail…yes.”
We skied back to the “CLOSED” sign and made our way into Zermatt! We stopped at a restaurant and grabbed a Hot Bailey’s and Hot Chocolate and some dinner. Then we took a taxi back to Saas-Fee!
I was so psyched to be able to get in a route like this. It was a big day and well worth the trip out here in and of itself, let alone to be able to compete in one of the World's biggest and best ice competitions.

Tuesday, January 19, 2010

Arrival in Saas-Fee, Switzerland

1/18/2010 - 1/19/2010
Milan, Italy to Saas-Fee, Switzerland
Up and at ‘em ! Moving on to the next competition venue on a cold and foggy morning in Milan, we caught a ride by shuttle bus to the train station. We must be headed to Switzerland because all the transfers ran like clockwork. No waiting around. The train out of Milan was fast and smooth and only made a few short stops. Waterfall ice and climbing crags littered landscape when we got into the mountains. I was able to get some studying done by reading some of my textbook for the spring semester at UNM that hasn’t started yet.
Malcolm Kent from the UK had given us some food when he dropped us off from our trip out of Valle di Daone, and I carried it in a bag with two bottles of champaign that Emilo, the owner of Zamberlan boot company had given to Justin and I at the last competition. We ate the food, but left the bubbly for another time, likely in Saas-Fee.
Gordon McArthur is supposed to show up from Canada today/tonight. This will be his first World Competition and I’m sure he’s super excited. We all have a flat in Saas-Fee, and as you can imagine, it’s pretty nice. A quaint chalet with a bomb shelter serving as the game room downstairs comes complete with incredible views of some of our ski tour lines that we’ll be doing later this week.
We strolled through the town after getting settled in. The 1:25,000 maps are available at the local gift shop and the magnetic declination is about 0, so that makes navigation a bit easier in whiteout terrain. I’m pretty psyched to get some big days on skis here, especially since I’ll be taking my AMGA Ski Mountain Guides Exam in Alaska in a couple months.
The Swiss take the Euro, but give change in Franks. They don’t take Euro coins however, and so we’ll be stuck with buying trinkets with our leftover Franks when it’s all said and done. Pretty good scheming, I’d say. The exchange rate is nearly 1:1 with the US dollar, but they don’t take US that money. They nail you on currency exchange, so the best bet is to use the evil Visa card.
Ryan Nelson, a hard mixed climber who pushed the limits early on in mixed climbing history has been sending me information on Facebook about what to do and where to go! He’s becoming the best tour guide and single best information point for the entire trip so far. Really, Ryan should be climbing with us at this competition. I remember seeing him and Jarrod Ogden putting up hard mixed lines in Ouray when I was still coming to grips that what they were doing was even possible. I’m sure Ryan could train up and get on the podium. Yes, this is a call to arms. Not only Ryan – you know who you are out there. Answer the call, push your limits, and train hard. Hope to see your name on the docket for the World Ice Comps someday!
We took a quick peek at the venue for the competition here is Saas-Fee as well. It didn’t appear that anyone was working on it or was in shape for competition, so we took a closer look. Holy crap, they would never allow this in the USA (something cool and fun). The structure is fixed inside a 10 story parking garage in middle of the spiral drive! The wall is bolted on, fixed with cable and manipulated with a monster-sized winch on the -5th floor. Yes, the minus 5th floor. The parking garage is built on the side of a cliff as there are no high-rise buildings in Saas-Fee to ruin the viewscape. Ice runs down the semi-symmetrical looking climbing structure. The holds look like real rock holds and are mounted on extremely overhanging terrain. Large blocks of ice have been hoisted up and fixed speckling the structure with volumous opportunities for outlandish mixed climbing terrain. I can only hope that I have the drive to get up this thing and have as good a time as it promises to be.

Sunday, January 17, 2010

Competition day in Valle di Daone

1/16/2010-1/17/2010
Competition day in Valle di Daone
I went through the usual labors of getting up, but added clearing my respiratory tract from my recently acquired illness, a production to be sure. Breakfast was good and the skies were clear. My pack was light since I didn’t have to take much more than the essentials, harness, helmet, fruit boots (crampons), iPod, and a thermos.
77 men squeezed into the isolation room where there was two warm-up structures. The one inside was well fitted to doing regular climbing, but was also set up to do upside down stein pulls and long side pulls. It was spray painted with “WELCOME” in English! It was nice to know that we were putting the US flag firmly on all the UIAA competition venues this year, and we have been quite welcomed here in Valle di Daone in general.
There is a lot of talk about this sport going Olympic. In fact, the opening ceremonies even had an Olympic-style fire, symbol and all. With the amount of international participation, it’s hard to believe that it would not be a good fit for the winter games. In fact, it would be one of the few excellent spectator sports. Perhaps someday it will make its way to the big time, but for now it’s big enough for me.
It’s interesting to inside of a room full of enough nervous energy that one might be able to run a small town’s electrical needs from it. I was one of the last people to climb since that’s how the draw came down this time. It was the first time I had to wait until the end to climb and I was, in a way, happy to have the time to warm up properly and get focused.
From previewing the route I could tell that the moves on my given line were long and powerful. So went through some of these moves on the isolation work board and felt pretty good about them. The passing hours and eventual decline in athletes in isolation left a bored few of us playing hacky sack with an empty Red Bull can. So although none of the six of us could speak a common language, we could all play the game together.
Finally, I was called and I walked to the transition isolation shack behind the climbing structure. I went inside the small wooden storage shed and was locked in with two other athletes. I could not stand up inside but was able to sit down on a bench seat next to a small ceramic heater.
Once I was called for the last time I was led through a tunnel and out to the climb. I took one last look at the climb. I was hesitant to even start. I wanted to make sure that I wasn’t going to break some rule that I wasn’t used to, like a false start. It would be easy to be disqualified if you had one foot on the ground, both axes on the starting hold, and then moved and axe from the hold. I also was pretty damn nervous, but felt in control. I was also a bit worried since the belay was asking me how much I weighed. “90 kg” I told him. He was a bit unnerved as I guess I am the heaviest competitor in history. There’s not a lot of 200 pound competition ice climbers running around, most are below 80kg and usually closer to 70kg. “Ya, I have to haul it all up there” I told him, and I tied into the rope.
I climbed very slowly and very tentatively, so much so as to a fault. I also realize now that I should be more aggressive kicking into the wood. This is something that I have never done before Kirov, and that experience was futile in -30°C. I reverted to tracking, a style of climbing using only the holds for my feet that I used for my hands, a very common American style of climbing. I got up past the third clip and my foot slipped off a hold while I was in a full bicep lock off upside down stein pull, leaving me lowering myself with a one arm decline. I immediately grabbed harder as the anxiety sky rocketed, a wicked cycle that makes for a brutal pump in the forearms. I was 1/3 the way through the route and I just want to get higher and didn’t really care about my time. I was able to shake out my arms for a brief moment but had trouble with my gloves stacking up and essentially entrapping my hands on each other while trying to grab the tools.
I could hear friends cheering for me and I pulled hard to the next hold. I placed the tool on the right side and could not see a hole to put the pick into, so I fished around for a second and then popped off as I lost power and hooked my tools together.
There’s nothing like a good ass beating to realize how different the climbing style is here in Europe. The techniques and demanding mix of dynamic and static climbing are far beyond anything that we train for in the states. My only regret in not making it further in the competition is that I will not be able to climb more on these climbs to gain more experience. I know that it is up to me to come up with a better training regimen if I am going to come back and be a serious competitor in this venue.
The speed climbing competition was held on a large snow mound that they had trickled water down on to try to make an ice surface for climbing. It seemed like a good idea, but many of the ice hold pulled out during competition, breaking off large faces of the frozen façade. One of the guys from the Netherlands ripped through the ice with a tool and lacerated the medial aspect of his forearm. Some thought that he might have actually broken his arm at first, but it was just a small laceration that the local medical authorities decided that he needed to go by ambulance to a hospital far away to get stitched up. I offered to stitch him up back at the hotel room, but he was already involved in the drama, so they took him away.
Justin Spain and I both had a great time and made it to the Semi-finals in the speed climbing competition. We beat some Russians, some of which are the fastest speed climbers on the planet, but we didn’t make it to the finals. Speed climbing is quite fun, but perhaps one of the most dangerous things we’ve done, besides taking a car up and down the Valle di Daone road.
I am inclined to come back to Valle di Daone to compete again. I would be great to see more of the area climbing and skiing. Many UIAGM mountain guides run this event and are helpful with information. The competition routes are well set and a lot of work goes into them. I told the route setters “thank you.”
I’m hoping to actually feel good for the next competition is Saas-Fee, Switzerland. In Kirov, I was sleep deprived, and in Daone I was sick with a respiratory infection. We’ll see. I’m still enjoying the journey and am learning a ton!