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Anyone who saw the route knows it was a tough year. Anyone who was on it, knows it was impossible. Someone asked me what the route was rated. I replied M20 since nobody sent it. Granted, it’s doable, but not on competition day and not in the conditions it was in. Overhanging verglass ice made for an improbable ascent. Brutally cold temps at night (10F during the comp) contributed to sublimated detachment and brittle ice on the competition route. Most competitors fell within a few feet of one another ( a couple of bolts apart). The route may be doable on a better day when a climber can reef on the holds, but not this day.
Speaking for my own performance on the route, I felt that I did a poor job of reading the route. Being 6’4” with a +2” index and strong lock-off ability did me no favors in trying to over pull through the opening moves to save time. My second placement hit ice and I felt secure. However, when I looked down at the placement, I could see the ice spalling from under the pick. Needless to say, that placement popped and I was off. Embarrassed and disgusted I was lowered off and wished Stephen Koch good luck and not to take anything for granted. 14th place this year wasn’t what I set my goals on, and I didn’t represent what I’m capable of.
Beyond the agony of self defeat, I was amazed at the amount of people that showed up to cheer and jeer me on. Jason Williams, Justin Spain and Ben Goddard were instrumental in helping me train hard this year and they were letting me know they were in the stands. Thanks guys. The Shooks made the journey and got some ice climbing in as well. Nic and Rose Mary came, bought me dinner after cheering me on, and enjoyed shopping at OMS shortly thereafter. Chrissie brought Logan and Sierra to watch “dad” climb not only mixed rock and ice for the first time, but also to be a part of the Ice Fest in Ouray. All my friends and climbing family from Ouray and elsewhere were having a great time and being a part of a great memory that will last forever. I feel so fortunate to have such great support from these people.
What can I say but, THANKS !
I’d like to publicly thank Chuck O’Dette and Petzl for sponsoring me and having me be a part of an elite team of world renown climbers. It’s a great crew that shows up every year and gets people from all ability levels involved in ice climbing and then throws an incredible party after the competition. PMI has been another great sponsor. Their ropes have kept me alive for many, many years whether pushing my personal limits in climbing or doing rescues in the middle of the night. Their Tech gloves have been great to climb mixed rock and ice with.
On another note, I was happy to coach several people this season so far in the contrivances of mixed climbing. I hope to bring more people into the sport and am thinking about holding a clinic on hard mixed climbing techniques next year. Seems I’m a good coach/cheerleader.
I’d also like to thank Vince Anderson who put so much time and effort putting up this year’s route, Erin and Mel who ran the Fest, Bill Whit who ran the comp, Conrad Anker who MC’d the Comp and took my information at breakfast in the wee hours before the start at the athlete’s breakfast, and everyone who played a role in making the Ice Fest and the Ice Competition happen not only for the competitors, but everyone who enjoys climbing in Ouray.
Having been in the only International Climbing Competition in the USA on an annual basis, I have to say that it’s a great experience. It’s now my third, going on my fourth season in competition and it’s a great experience. My personal goal is to be in next year’s competition and be able to give it everything, to have a good run, and to make the finish or to be gassed out trying, but not to fall off of a chincy hold.
I told Jay Smith at lunch the other day that my heroes are also my friends, there’s not many sports out there like that. I hope to compete again next year and hope to see everyone out there pushing themselves and living life !
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