Tuesday, October 12, 2010

Ice Holdz Petzl Ergo Gear Review

It's Time
I was fortunate enough to finish my training wall this summer and put up some Ice Holdz in conjunction with a new upside down stein pull hold that I created in order to get ready for the upcoming Mixed Rock and Ice World Cup Competitions in Asia and Europe. As well, I was able to preview some of Petzl's latest creations, the new Ergo Ice Tool.

Having used the tools of the Jedi Master's, the Nomic, for the past several years for personal use and in competitions, I wondered how much more radical a tool could get. A new tool should not compromise performance on mixed terrain (rock, moss, plastic, wood, etc.) while staying true to ease of throwing into ice. This is sometimes a hard balance to create. The ERGO tool is clearly the next stage in the mixed climbing arena.

I was able to use this tool on real rock at a local climbing crag in Albuquerque, NM as well as on my wall throwing into Ice Holdz. It definitely takes some getting used to in the trust department, but the tool clearly holds on better to dime edges and complex holds than any tool I have used before. Moreover, when punching into an upside down stein pull, you are able to get higher (placing more leverage on the hold), allowing a longer throw afterward. This is a huge advantage. I'm still learning with these tools, but I think they will be the number one arrow in my quiver this year when I hit the mixed terrain.

Check them out and put yours on order at the Strike Rescue Store
http://store.strikerescue.com/store.php?crn=242&rn=492&action=show_detail

For Ice Holdz, well, check out the video and you be the judge. These holdz are great practice for throwing into real ice. The y work best in moderate temperatures and are awesome for preseason training. Even having 4-6 of these holdz will greatly diversify your training. Mentally, it switches your focus from rock holds to having to swing into ice. They're easy to mount onto your home wall or gym. They're not that expensive and for what you get out of them you'll be happy you have some to train on.


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Wednesday, June 16, 2010

Physician Assistant life, MRA Conference - speaker on Naica, Las Cuevas


Thoughts on the Medical System

This last month was good to get back into the medical role once again. The medical world and the role of a physician assistant (PA-C), are always changing in some ways, and in other ways it will always remain the same. Working with people that have medical ailments is a passion for me and I like to help when and however I can.

The part I find most disturbing is that the corporate machine is "business as usual" and people, the patient, is still just another piece of meat that there is no compassion for. I can understand how the medical system is in trouble as there seems to be a delicate balance to keep it all together. I don't believe that government bailouts are an answer to any problem.

Programs that support children are always good. Programs that enable people who could otherwise work long term are bad. The abuses on all ends are atrocious. Its difficult to think that by acting locally, that things can change, but we all have to do our part.

I talked with Dr. Tryon a bit and found out that he has a custom group of people that he follows. He's checked out of the main stream and abandoned Medicare for his practice. He's essentially a "hired gun patient advocate." Truly, if you are in a hospital and don't have an advocate, you will have a harder time. There is value in having an on-call care provider 24/7, and someone who knows you well.

My advice is to stay healthy, exercise regularly (never stop), don't eat bad food, and be nice to your fellow human.

Moreover, I'm wondering about how medicine and SAR are converging. People are now being charged for SAR costs, much like they are for medical bills. Does the State have an obligation to pay for these costs, does the State have an obligation to charge for SAR services? Are there other alternatives ? Volunteerism does not seem to be enough. There are fewer and fewer volunteers in these times of economic difficulty. Those who are new to SAR do not have any skills since the programs for kids are fewer. Kids are interested in instant gratification since that's that we are training them to do. Interesting chain of events.



National Mountain Rescue Conference, Juneau, AK 2010

Click to follow link

With over 90 government authorized units in the US, Canada and other countries, the Mountain Rescue Association (MRA) has grown to become the critical mountain search and rescue resource in the United States.

The National Spring Conference 2010 is being held in Juneau, Alaska and I've been asked to present as the keynote speaker, presenting on a recent National Geographic expedition to Mexico that Strike Rescue was contracted to do. Although I have done many presentations over the years, I have not been a keynote speaker before. This should be exciting.


Cueva de los Cristales (a.k.a., Fortress of Solitude)


The topic I'm speaking on is Heat Illness. I've learned more about the effects of heat through the doctoral Exercise Science program that I am in at the University of New Mexico. This information will be coupled with the trials of running an expedition 300 meters underground and at temperatures of 48 C and humidity of 90-95%. There's no escape and there's no help if something goes wrong, so there's no room for error.

I came up with some tricks to manage this environments and the physiological issues surrounding them as well as some non-traditional ways of getting in and out to help mitigate the risk. Hope to see you at the conference !

National Geographic will unveil our expedition later this year and it promises to be exciting !

Sunday, May 9, 2010

AMGA Ski Mountaineering Guides Exam 2010 (cont)

Alaska - Girdwood and Hatcher Pass 2010

It's been a long process, but this video pretty much sums it up:
Beverly Hattrup American Mountain Guides Association Ski Mountaineering Guides Exam 2010

It's been a long road and we actually aren't told if we've passed or not until at least two weeks after the exam. So, all of the candidates will be on pins and needles until the results come out. I felt pretty good throughout the exam and I was able to glean a lot of great information from the examiners and friends on the exam.

Enjoy the video.

Marc

Sunday, April 18, 2010

Alaska AMGA Ski Mountaineering Exam

Back on the road again. this time it's to Hatcher Pass and Turnagain Pass in Alaska to take the (hopefully) last of my AMGA exams, the Ski Mountaineering Guides Exam. It's a grueling process and a tough exam not only to take, but also to prepare for. Up to this point I've invested thousands of hours to getting to this point, where I'm feeling like I meet the international guiding standard.

I've been previewing the areas and have been fortunate enough to ski with Ed and Erin at Hatcher Pass. Ed runs Hatch Your Trax web site and has posted one of my videos to show how brutal the conditions can be for some, but also how good it can be !

The stability of the snowpack is in general Poor at Hatcher, so I went to Girdwood to check out Turnagain Pass. Unfortunately, it's been raining for 4 days now...snow in the highlands, but you have to get there starting from about 1000' where the stability is mostly Good.

Sitting around the coffee house perfecting my bookwork for the exam, I've had a chance to work with Tyler Jones, another exam candidate. It's been a good time and we are pretty much ready for everything except poor visibility. Someone please invent goggles that pierce the fog so we can see where we're going ! Better yet, make a set that also picks out where the avalanche trigger points are so we can ski around them !

Hope to have a "happy ending" out here in AK ! I'm sure I'll learn more from our instructors/evaluators than they will form any of us. Still, we are trying to impress them with all of our best skills and guiding techniques.

Thursday, March 18, 2010

Russian Video of the World Ice Competition

Alexey Dengin from Team Russia put this video together of their tour of the IWC. I suppose we should do something like this, but I just haven't had the time. Enjoy !
Ice Club 2010



Thursday, March 4, 2010

New Mexico - Pecos Wilderness Back Country Skiing East Face Santa Fe Baldy and Penitente Couloir

Barely having enough time to take a breath in between avalanche courses, I was able to get out for a big day in the Pecos Wilderness. There were a couple of ski shots that I had my eye on for several years and really didn't have anyone who had the time or interest to go out with me, especially since I'm kind of a short notice personal trip taker in light of everything else going on.

On the way back from teaching a Southwest Adventure Guides Level 2 avalanche course in Silverton, Colorado at the end of February, I asked Justin Spain if he was off on a Tuesday and if he would be interested in going to do a couloir and a fairly big and committing face on a long back country ski tour. He of course was psyched to go and asked what the plan was. I let him in on the scheme and we packed bags and got up early the day of the tour.

The tour started at Santa Fe Ski Area. We hiked up and over Deception Peak, then over to Lake Peak. The snow filled in a majority of the gaps that usually make for interesting rock climbs and bouldering problems. Overhanging corninces lined the ridge all the way to Penitente Peak and the lee sided aspect produced small slab avalanches during the storm. We cut through a cornice between Deception and Lake Peaks and it initiated a small avalanche that went down into the Santa Fe watershed. It's looking like the people of greater Santa Fe will be able to drink water this year since there is a large amount of snowpack in the watershed !


We hiked down the east ridge of Lake Peak and towards Penitente Couloir (I'm callnig it that since it's on the way to Penitente Peak, but it's kind of a misnomer since the couloir is actually on the Lake Peak massif). After a hundered feet of post holing down from the summit we put skis on and made our way to the couloir notch.

The notch was inviting and a good ingress into the couloir was a bit of a skiing jump into a vacated fetch zone. I realized that the fetch was devoid of snow, right down to the ground, so I nixed the plan to jump in and take a few turns to the left in an anticipatory effort to ski cut the top of the wind slab. I'm glad I didn't since the wind slab was bullet hard underneath a few cm of newer snow. So, I hiked up and gained a nice ski entrance on the wind slab higher up and to the East side of the notch. It worked great and I was happy that my edges were carving well along the 52 degree slope of the drum-tight snow that was compacted by angry winds from the North. The fetch that had no snow took up 50% of the entrance, so the turns were limited by that distance. Nonetheless, I was able to get down the couloir in good style and gain softer snow 20m down. The remainder of the turns were fantastic.


Turning out underneath a rock band, I was able to stop midway down the slope and wait for Justin who had made his entrance along with me just to get past the first 20m and get established into the couloir. We snapped some photos of this spectacular couloir and had a great time laying tracks all the way down and into more open terrain.

From the bottom of Penitente Couloir we skinned and skied down to the Windsor Trail and then up to Puerto Nambe where we caught the Skyline Trail up to Windy Point. The valley fog that was covering Santa Fe all morning was a result of the 8cm of dense snow that had fallen the day before. Rime ice was plastered all over the rocks, trees and escarpments at tree line and into the alpine terrain above 12,000 feet elevation. The fog moved in as we started up the Skyline Trail, which was perfect since it shaded us from the sun. The short wave radiation was bouncing off the cirrus clouds and had already heated up the dense snowpack to where the moisture easily stuck onto our ski skins. I broke out a bar of skin wax that seemed to help a little bit, but the snow was changing to slush so fast that it was becoming nearly futile to travel since the weight of the snow under the skis was taking a toll quick. The only cure was to advance to a higher elevation where the snow was colder, and so we did.

Windy Point had the sign for Baldy and we looked up through the clouds. A surreal landscape of large cliff faces separated by long vertical snowfields intermittently shined through the whisking clouds as they rolled from around the ridge and across the East Face of Santa Fe Baldy.


Large cornices poised like sentinels ran the length of the East Face ridge. No ski tracks were seen, but I had found out that there were some other travelers that passed through prior to the storm that had taken their turn, but now there was sign of them being there, making it feel quite remote for New Mexico.

Justin took the lead and got us to the summit in short order. We eyed the descents into the Lake Kathryn area and decided that those lines would have to be saved for another day. The East Face was too inviting.





Pulling out my cordalette, we decided that we were going to cut a cornice and let it drop onto the slope below to see how the snowpack would behave and if there would be any slab avalanche danger. I stepped 1.6 meters from the edge of the cornice and it promptly broke at 1.5m back. One of my skis was in the air, the other with 20cm behind the fracture and I was able to jump back while holding on to the cordalette and Justin giving me a quick belay. That boy sure is getting fast with the belay ! The cornice broke out some 6-7m along the ridge as it was quite undercut and heavy. It pummeled onto the slope below and triggered a small, slow moving slab that ended up entraining a large amount of wet avalanche debris that went nearly all the way to the bottom of the face over a very long minute. Although the snow wasn't moving fast, and the debris would not have really buried a skier, it could have knocked a skier or snow boarder down and carried them a long way.

I looked across the slope and saw where the other crew had entered the East Face. It looked like they did a ski cut right underneath the largest set of cornices and above a cliff band. I wondered if they had triggered an avalanche if they wouldn't still be there when we arrived a few days later. It seemed like a risky entrance where they cut across the underbelly of the gargoyles that overshadowed the cache of good skiing below.

We then cut another cornice and got the same results. I figured we could get into the East Face shot by hacking away at a cornice and making a realistic entrance and then making a drop entrance and onto the 62 degree face to make a coule of turns and gain a nice protected saddle where a broken vertical ridge running up the East Face doesn't quite meet the summit ridge.

The turns were better than I had imagined and were quite easy, but an aggressive mindset is what gets one onto the boiling plate, so I jumped in with my torso forward and skis parallel to the slope. A couple quick turns let the remaining snow slide and I stopped to let it go by.



Then, Justin jumped in and set up next to me. We skied the turns that only come in a dream. The could had parted and a nearly blue sky gave us the pat on the back as we skied onto more gentle grade of low 40s, then upper 30s. We started out in the debris and then moved our way out into the open slope once the angle subsided and risks abated with each turn.



Justin took a near perfect line the entire fall line. I moved over at the half way point to another slope and ripped through the snow on a small ridge on a rock back and then to more open gladed terrain and met him at the bottom where a piece of cornice had rolled all the way to the bottom, nearly 1,200' down.

We laughed in amazement at the quality of line that this was and realized that THIS is what memories are made of.



We took out our lunches and had a great bite to eat on a large flat granite rock. Then, we skinned up our skis and hiked back to the ridge. It wasn't over yet. We had to use ski crampons to make our way to the South Ridge, but it was worth it since we had a clear shot on corn snow all the way back down to Puerto Nambe. We left big deep turns in the open trees for nearly 1,000'.

Once at Puerto Nambe we augmented our plans to return back over Lake Peak via Penitente and just opt for the Windsor trail egress. IT was a great day and we didn't feel like we needed to push it along any more.

We celebrated with margaritas and Mexican food at Maria's in Santa Fe. I'm glad that I have an opportunity in my life to share my experiences with an up-and-coming mountain guide like Justin. Enough can't be said about having a good partner on high adventure outings. Solid teamwork with good methods for attaining shares goals is a fortunate circumstance that should not be taken for granted. I'm fortunate to have friends like him and can't wait to get out there once again with them to make more great memories !

That's what dreams are made of.

Wednesday, March 3, 2010

New Routes in Ouray - No Longer Your Father's Poser's Lounge


After getting back from Europe, I went to see Jason and Lisa Nelson up in Ouray, Colorado. Jason and I headed out to get more mixed climbing in before the season draws to a close. As fate would have it, Jason and I got in one day of climbing together before we decided that there needed to be some more new mixed lines in the Poser's Lounge on the way to Camp Bird.

Check out Jason's new write-up


We established a couple of new lines. The first is a major extension to Troglodyte. It now goes all the way to the top where the Goldline anchors are. The next is a traversing linkup that starts on Troglodyte, then crosses through the crux of Goldline and then past Fist Full of Steel, then finishes on Cinnamon and Cider. Although I'm not sure how hard these lines are since ratings to me are now in a contrived state, then climbing is fun.

Thanks to Clint Cook for letting us borrow his drill (I left mine at home) and to Bill Leo from Ouray Mountain Sports (OMS) for letting us spend some cash to get bolts and hangers on-demand!

I hope everyone gets a chance to get on these routes.

SKIING is the paradoxical universe that I live in. I"ll post something here as soon as I can get the photos up and modified.