Grigri 2 - the coming of age

The new Petzl Grigri 2 is what I've been waiting for. As a mountain guide, I look at any device for multiple uses. The Grigri 2 not only provides great security, hands-free descents for double rope technique and counter balance rappels, but also offers light weight and space saving for those staunch about those kinds of things (like airlines and every climber out there).

I've been using it to put up new routes as well. The handling is a little more compact. The ropes that most climbers use are in the 9mm range and the Grigri 2 handles this range with ease.

Over the years I have used the regular Grigri in drop testing and have abused it more than anyone out there...I'm almost sure. I've done so many pull tests with the Grigri that I've incorporated it into my armamentarium for rescue work holding 2kN loads ! The new Grigri 2 is made with the same workmanship as the standard Grigri and I'm sure that it should be just as good, and perhaps better ! I say this because mountaineers and guides will now have a new weapon to use with those smaller ropes when dealing with crevasse rescue or smaller static lines for big walling.

You can order your new Grigri 2 at the strike Rescue store:
http://store.strikerescue.com/store.php?crn=235&rn=480&action=show_detail

There's limited supply and Petzl has been on a six month back order.

I'm excited to have this new tool in the tool box for sure. Personally, I use the Petzl Omni carabiner so that I also never have to worry about cross loading my belay device carabiner. We;ve recently integrated this biner into the Albuquerque Mountain Rescue's litter spider. It's got beefier stock aluminum too.

I think that everyone will be upgrading to the new Grigri 2 sooner than later.

Addendum: Yes, there was a recall. The recall notice comes after a recent finding where someone was using the device incorrectly and found that they could "lock it open", essentially turning the Grigri 2 into an plate device and by-passing the drum's added friction. Although people should never let go of the brake hand, it happens all too often and presents a potential hazard. It was an incidental finding and no injuries have occurred, but Petzl thought that it was siginificant enough for them to recall the device. Only the updated Grigri 2 will be sold through our store.

Bergführer - Mountain Guide

March 15, 2011

Today is a special day for me. Not only was I able to go ski with a friend, but also a motivational mentor of mine who was also evaluating me on my last day in the process of me completing my certification as an international mountain guide. Vince Anderson is perhaps one of the USA's most celebrated alpinists of all time. It was only fitting that he was able to tell me after the last ski run, "wait to make strong turns at the bottom of the chute to finish up getting your pin!" The "pin" is a statement that you have completed the Certified Guide Program. The echo of my whoop filled the valley.

We skied the San Juans, old stomping grounds for both of us, and the setting of some of the most beautiful mountains in the world.

Skiing the avalanche chutes at Chatanooga, looking down on highway 550. Vince Anderson photo.

The UIAGM/IFMGA/IVBV is the international foundation of mountain guides. I've always wanted to perform well in the mountains whether it was in guiding, working, climbing, skiing, rescue, or instruction. Knowing that I meet the international standard is something that I have spent several years on. The process of going through all the courses and exams is good, but sometimes quite frustrating. At times it is difficult to see the light at the end of the tunnel, but today, with the sun high in the bullet blue sky over the San Juan Mountains of Colorado, that light is brilliant.
Heaven's Eleven. With only about 20 descents on this highly committing line ending in a cliff, we were fortunate to use this as a "warm-up." Vince Anderson photo.

I'd like to thank all the people and guides who have inspired me, who have put up with me, evaluated me, and honed me. This is a major accomplishment for which I am indebted to many, including myself.

Winds of change

So the new administration has firmly taken hold and you've gotten rid of your klunker and purchased a new vehicle in the sake of getting ahead ? So now it's time to get ready to climb some rock, get out to the mountains for a hike, or have a mojito. Better yet, do all three. I make the best mojitos around (from a stolen recipe) !

It's off to the San Juans in WONDERFUL Colorado to do a three day guided trip into Chicago Basin. Then, back to NM for some more fun with rock climbing. Our guests are having a great time out in the New Mexico sun and the southwestern chili is as good as it ever is. 

Justin Spain is working for Beverly Mountain Guides now and is off to take his AMGA Rock Instructor Course in Estes Park next week ! Good Luck, Justin. He's a great guide already and this will only make him better. I can't wait to glean new information from him when he gets back.

I am feeling awesome now that I am a UIAGM/IFMGA Aspirant Mountain Guide. I'll be hoping to host some guests in Europe this coming year under a fully certified guide. Contact us for details since I'll already be there to compete in this years International World Ice Climbing Competition. There are several venues and I'm hoping to be a competitor. Come join the USA crew at one of the venues (Italy, Switzerland, Russia, Slovenia, or Romania). Otherwise, plan for some skiing in the Alps!

Meanwhile, back at home, we've been busy and have put up more sport and traditional climbs in the Sandias this summer. Grades range from 5.6 to 5.12 so there's something new for everyone.

Ted Geving is back in town as well - good to have you back. He will be making some tweaks to the new web site and showing off our new BMG logo !

Stay in shape and get out and climb with us soon. We look forward to hearing from you.

All the Best,

Marc