Autumn is a good place to be ANYWHERE.

Ya, that's right. Autumn is the new Nirvana. Think about it. You can chase the shade or chase the light while rock climbing, sit in the sun beams that warm during the day, and in the hot tub at night while the cool fingers of winter start to run through the valleys as the days grow shorter. Is there anything more infusing than the vivid change of colors in the deciduous organisms in the forest or in the arroyos of the deserts ? Of course, there's always that smell of fresh cut wood for the fireplace, and in New Mexico, the smell of roasting green chili that burn into the gnostic sensory, good memories. These are the harbingers of a winter pending.

 Aspen Leaf by Nancy Attaway

I can't help but think about all the training I do for ice climbing/competition season. Day after day of living in NM without much in the way of my favorite style of climbing available, has shaped the remainder of my life. Getting ready for World Competition is no small feat. Diet, physical training, mental training, honing techniques both old and new, and putting a large part of my life on hold while I pursue my endeavor, are all part of the picture.

 Gord climbing my route, "Pull the Trigger, Crigger. M12". Photo Tim Banifield.

Working in the winter time is usually some of the best money for a mountain guide, but I prefer to spend the wintery days enveloped in the dream. Sometimes I feel like a resurrection plant that comes to life once a year. Autumn is that time when I finally get that long awaited drink of water. The cones in my retina aren't so bothered by the harsh light of a high sun, and my eyelids can open wide. Taking that deep breath of cold air somehow feels more clean than the air of summer just a month ago.  

I have been lucky enough to join forces with Jason Nelson to formulate this crag, the Hall of Justice. To me, it's the BEST mixed climbing area in the lower 48 and I was also fortunate enough to enjoy climbing there this past weekend with Jason Nelson, Gordon McArthur, and Aron Montgomery. Although it's pre-season mischief, it's a good place to sharpen the skills that will be needed in the coming months.

The Hall of Justice undergoes ephemeral changes, but climbing continues to be hard. "Pull the Trigger, Crigger" just got a little more exciting. Now there's a 4 axe length move for one of the opening moves since one of the natural holds pulled off. It's all fun and games though. The risk is low and the learning curve is high. We have a good time giving out advice and taking the wisdom and insight of others home, improving each other.

It's all in the spirit of the game.

Game On.