El Portillo, Chile (cont) Video

I thought that I would have more time to write on the blog, but I spent most of my time skiing, partying at El Portillo with all the cool people we met, or being a "touron" in Santiago. Chris and I owe Camile a huge thanks for not only showing us around Santiago but also for taking us to her home in the beautiful Isla de Maipo, a wonderful farmland and massive vineyard region.

My partner, Chris Chaput, is more than I could ask for. It was great to work with such a colleague and we will be working together again in the future towards more high-level courses and adventures, no doubt. We've been putting our heads together to put on something like this in Colorado.

Kerry had a great time and hopefully will be going back again next year. I think the trip made a good impression on him, so I hope the word will travel. If it weren't for Kerry pushing so hard to go on this trip I'm not sure that this magic would have come to fruition. We were ready to pull the plug with all the complications of the volcano, switching flights at the last second, and having to make this happen at the last second, but you can see from the video that it more than paid off. I'll NEVER regret this pilot run with this program. It was awesome.

A photo is worth a 1000 words, but this video says it all. I think the BMG program is awesome and Chris and I have more dreams of bringing the same quality programs to the States in the future. In the meantime, I'll bet you wished you were there:

El Portillo from marc beverly on Vimeo.

El Portillo, Chile

Travel to Santiago, Chile is relatively painless in more ways than one compared to going over seas either to the east or west from North America. After having to pull the plug on Bariloche, Argentina because of the major amounts of ash that was threatening the area, it was easy to come to the decision to head to El Portillo. Made famous in the USA by Warren Miller, this South American gem is like stepping into a time capsule of what skiing used to be like in the 1960's. Families, huck dolls, and an eclectic international crowd now make up the majority of the patrons. Mountain Guides, ski guides, and ski instructors frequent this area not only for its access, but also its skiing. The Chilean Andes is an incredible place to spend some much needed cooler temperatures while the rest of the USA is baking in the sun. Great skiing on several aspects, an incorporable and delectable menu, as well as wonderful accommodations are some of the major benefits of traveling south of the equator, as one might expect.

Other points of interest are the fact that people bring their families here and the kids have a sustaining relationship with the staff. This isn't Vegas so you'll likely come back and know people that you have met before. There is a strong American influence not only with style (Chris Davenport's "Ski with the Stars"), but also some of California and Colorado's best ski instructors and guides work here. It's no wonder the die hard winter enthusiasts conglomerate in great locations like these in the "off summer season" when forests close, work is sparse, and the economy is being crunched. This is a little slice of heaven for clients and the work force.

There must be something said about the dining room. We have our own "team" of wait staff. They make sure that our meals are delivered with astounding presentation, that the wines are excellent, and that everything is to our satisfaction. Deserts are simply off the chart. For me to try to describe it would be a dis-service.

Today, the skiing was excellent. a plethora of people come and go for a week at a time. It's great to see so many people from such a diverse background. In any other ski area in the USA there would be moguls, bumps formed from so many skiers making the same turns at the same locations. But here, days after a storm, there are still fresh lines to be had within the ski area. Outside the area, or places that one must hike to, there are simply no tracks at all. The Roca Jack, a counterbalance sling-shot lift that takes up 5 skiers at a time on a single cable is where Kerry and I started one of our ascents. We gained about 2000' elevation and skied fresh fluffy powder back down to the ski area on 46 degree+ slope angle. With Aconcagua in the background, it's hard not to feel lucky to be able to ski in such a place.

Chris Chaput and I have been looking at starting to bring clients down to South America for a winter experience during the USA summer.

Austier Mountain Medicine and Strike Rescue

Perhaps one of the most exciting new events in Emergency Medicine Services since the advent of the BS-EMS degree at the University of New Mexico is the highly anticipated debut for the UIAA IKAR recognized Terrestrial Strike Rescue course. The course will not only be a Strike Rescue certification course as well as provide and National Fire certification, but will also be the first university-backed, internationally recognized rescue instruction course in the United States that will offer college credit towards a degree.



This is going to be a 400 level course that will quickly review the standard rescue skills to get the participants capable in the vertical environment, introduce all the concepts in modern rope rescue for all disciplines, as well as delve into the literature and learn how to formulate critical thinking for rescue work. This is an integral part of the BS-EMS program that will help Paramedics be more productive and competitive in the job market.

We're putting together the topics and syllabus for this course late this summer/early fall. The SR team is a group of people with various backgrounds and experience. This course promises to be extraordinary. We hope that you'll be able to get into this course since seating is indeed limited and expectations are high.

There will be NFPA, Wilderness, and Alpine Industrial rescue techniques described and displayed by our professional instructors and utilized by the students. This is likely on of the best opportunities around when it comes to rescue work in the outdoor industry when it comes to training. See yo in the classroom this Spring !!!

Say it Ain't So

One of the most wicked photos ever ! National Geographic photo.

With the Chilean volcano continuing, we had to make a change of location from Bariloche, Argentina to the infamous El Portillo, Chile. Up to 9" of ash was dumped on our target ski grounds of Bariloche. Since all I can think about is visions of trying to ski in Pompeii, it was the only good decision to chase the sun and find better conditions elsewhere.

We're getting everything packed and meeting up tomorrow to over the final plans of what we'll take and what we'll leave behind. Skiing close to Aconcagua, the highest North American summit is a great experience. Skiing in Patagonia during the sweltering summer months, while the dog days of summer in New Mexico are taking full responsibility for creating my lowest energy state, is also an alluring prospect. I love winter and what cold temperatures bring to the land.

Stein Pulls and Can Openers

What is the definition of a Stein Pull ?
Stein pulls are something that most people like to do at the bar with their favorite ale. For ice climbers, it's a necessary technique of levering the head of the ice axe at the head while the pick is forced onto its point.

Dennis van Hoek from the Netherlands using two Stein pulls at once in competition at Rabenstien's Ice Fight.

Moreover, an upside-down Stein Pull, also known as a "can opener" is one of the more interesting and seemingly mystical moves in mixed climbing. Big moves can be made, and a lot of real estate covered over what seems to a a blank slate. Sometimes Figure 4 or Figure 9 moves can also be incorporated with either of these moves. There's always at least one of these moves, and usually 2-3, in every World Cup Ice Climbing competition route, and in every mixed competition route for that matter.

At my home wall I have several of these worked into my training since these moves involve different muscle groups than just straight-on dry tool climbing. Hopefully by the winter of 2011 I will have been able to get my design of an Ice Can and a Dry Can model on the market through Ice Holdz. They already have great holdz for mixed climbers to train on, but they hope to be coming out with another line of products that should be great for training and local gym use. This model would revolutionize the way ice climbers are able to train since the new models would be modular. You will be able to use the same backing and merely switch out the face on any given Ice Holdz or dry Holdz. Cool concept.

Ice climbing season is something that has definitely become a much longer season for me with the advent to training year-round for this type of climbing. I love having my own training facility in my back yard so that I can climb with ice tools anytime I want to. I had hoped that rock gyms would make their facilities more accessible to mixed climbing, by using non-peak hours to open their doors for this purpose.

Although mixed or dry climbing may seem contrived to people, remember that the sport of climbing is contrived to 99% of the population and that climbing is a fringe activity to begin with. It's only because of rock gyms and birthday parties that rock climbing has gained exposure in the USA. I personally like this form of climbing the most. Don't get me wrong, I still love to rock climb, but I like climbing with ice tools more.

Climbing with ice tools also allows me to climb in many locations that I would not otherwise be able to climb in since there ice actually ice. Ice is a transient medium that comes and goes and is constantly changing throughout its existence. It has only a narrow margin of temperatures that it likes to exist in for any length of time, adding to the wonder of the frozen world it creates. Waterfalls have long been a place of beauty and many are sacred to native peoples. They are even more sacred to ice climbers when they freeze, making time stand still.

From a little bar in Val Daone, Italy, where the "other type of Stein" is used.

Jemez Mountains Las Conchas Fire 2011

Usually I write about good and exciting things. Today I have to write about something intense. The Jemez Mountains are on fire. I grew up in the Jemez and spend a great deal of time there not only rock climbing but hunting, backpacking, and enjoying the amazing place that the Anasazi roamed. I went to summer camps there, and grew into the person that I am today. This wonderful time lapse video shows only day 1 of the fire that is the biggest fire in the history of the Jemez Mountains on record. Los Alamos National Laboratory, the town of Cochiti, and many other places are under mandatory evacuation.

The winds of change are upon us...all of us. I see the futile efforts of the C-130 bombers that carry so much slurry that they can barely gain elevation to get over my house on their way to the fire, watched the flames rip across the sky scape of the Jemez last night as the reports said only "1000 acres burned", but it was 49,000 acres ( burning 2,000 acres an hour), and think of the places that I've been that were lush with green and filled with elk are lost to a flame and a darkness. All of the Los Alamos crags, Cochiti Mesa(one of the first bolted sport climbing areas in the USA), and many other climbing areas both old and new, are now compromised.

Most of the best climbing are bolted sport routes that have been established by many people. The bolts themselves are likely suspect after a fire such as this can ruin the temper of the metal. To what degree is unknown. The photos of green pastures and climbing in a pristine area such as the Jemez are gone for now.

For me, I almost wonder if I should go back once the fires are done. For me, it's like knowing that an old friend is dying a slow and agonizing death. Going back once the fire is over will be like going to see my friend's torched body in a casket, yet waiting for their offspring to grow up to take their place and be green once again.

Yes, I'm sad. I know that the mountains should have burned a long time ago. We think we have control of the forest somehow. We do not. I grew up believing that Smoky the Bear concept was good. Now, I'm not sure. The United States Forest Service has been very good about not having forest fires. Maybe we need to accept the fact in the USA that death is a part of life, or maybe we need to accept that we can do a better job. That the cycle is a circle, and that from death there is life.

Our society has evolved since the early and mid 1900's. Out thought process on how we "manage" natural resources should also evolve.

Over the last 5 years I have lost many personal friends in the climbing world, mostly to avalanches. Certainly, if I were in another line of work, and not only in guiding, that I would find that friends would die from other causes.

The fires are necessary and will purge the foliage and the decay. I will be off on another journey in my homeland to find other places to make good memories and "new friends" while reflecting upon the loss of this one.

So lift your glass and toast: here's to enjoying the moments that make our lives extraordinary! I'll miss the Jemez in what is was, and through the smoke and carnage, will learn to appreciate the dawning of a new era.

Bariloche, Argentina. PSIA and AIARE combination course.

Well, the poster pretty much says it all. Well, not really. Bariloche is one of the newest places that Americans are starting to visit as the cost is lower than Portillo, Chile, or Las Lenas, Argentina. Not only that, but the views are spectacular since there are Patagonian alpine mountains and large lakes in the valley floors. The temperatures are generally mild, the food is great, and there's more to do than sit around and drink on your time off from skiing.

This is the first time in history that PSIA is going outside the USA. Chris Chaput is the PSIA Instructor Trainer from Telluride Ski Area who teaches ski school Ski Instructors around the world. Last year he went to China to train their ski school members. He also made it to Taos Valley Ski School and Ski Santa Fe, both in New Mexico. For this course he is taking the clinic into the backcountry as well as the groomers to provide a PSIA Level 1 Certification.





AIARE is the world wide standard in avalanche instruction. We will be covering all the AIARE level 1 material and providing a certificate for this course as well.

We feel that integrating these two courses is a great way for those ski instructors, entry level ski guides, or anyone who wants to become a good backcountry skier to get a great deal of hands-on before the North American winter season approaches. The students will be sharp and ready to use their new skills without having to take precious time off of work in November or December and will go into the following season with TWO certifications!

Personally, I'm really excited to see this program go and am looking forward to providing the same course in the winter season in the USA and perhaps Europe.

Even though it's 106F at Red Rocks, Nevada already, and the fires are burning and razing Arizona, we have our sites on cooler places.

If you would like to register, please click here.