French National Competition, L’Argentiere Le Bessee, France

Lappin' and Nappin' in Usine, France. Stephanie catches up on much need rest and Marc takes a spin on one of the best mixed lines in the world.

We got fired up that there was going to be another competition that we could go to in France since the Val Daone competition in Italy was canceled and we got on the road with our rental car and drove from the Scarpa Boot factory in Asolo, Italy to meet

Stephanie Maureau, who was already invited to compete in the final. Gordon and I drove through Chamonix and under Mont Blanc and then on for another couple of hours to the southeast to arrive at her parent’s house. They were more than accommodating and made us feel at home. Of course we ate the best cheese from the region and had some incredible genepi, local drink made of the flowers in the hills right behind the Maureau’s chalet.

The competition was in L’Argentiere Le Bessee, meaning that we got to drive up through the stunning mountain pass village of La Grave, one of the world’s premiere backcountry skiing locations.

The format of the competition was such that Jeff Mercier and crew put up a new dry tooling crag that was still under construction when we arrived. The key to any good dry tooling area is that the rock is usually bad enough that nobody else wants to climb it. The holds are drilled pockets and the feet are poor at best. The climbing is generally great though since long dynamic moves give rise to hard climbing on steep overhanging terrain.

Unfortunately, there were only 8-9 routes and there were nearly 40 competitors, half of which were the Russian team that got there early and clogged up the routes. They cued up 4 and 5 spots in advance for a climb while climbing on another route, which made it impossible for others to get in on a climb.

As usual, however, Alexy Dengin and Ludmilla were more than hospitable to Gordon and I and let us climb with them. The climbing was fun, but overall. In general the competition was supposed to be about fun and climbing, but it became difficult when there was too many people at the party, so to speak. Poor organization made for a semi-dangerous situation by having so many people in too close proximity and with large amounts of rock fall. Some of the competitors were snatching my water without asking and trying to take over our route even when we were on it, making for some hard feelings as evident by on-line postings. It’s funny that some people take it so seriously, but when there’s money on the table some people seem to turn into a ruthless competitor.

They should have given a time allotment or managed the climbing to some degree since some people didn’t even have a chance to climb the routes. It might sound like sour grapes, but it’s hard not to when one travels so far and invests themselves into the process only to have to experience such a poor process. Mostly, it fostered a lot of poor sportsmanship. I was able to get what I needed out of the day and climbed hard and climbed well, although after they closed the preliminary time allotment.

We stayed and watched Stephanie win the women’s finals and then left, not even going to the party afterward where they were playing slow reggae. The next day we got up and went climbing at Usine, perhaps one of the best mixed climbing experiences I’ve had. The cave is unreal. The guys from France have a great thing going at Usine and have had some great climbing competitions hosted in the cave, complete with DJ and lights! Seems like something that we could do at the Hall of Justice in Ouray, Colorado at some point.

I’m definitely inspired to put climbing routes up like what is in Usine, but Jason Nelson and I were already on the same mind set. The traditional way of climbing in North America is to climb on slopy little holds and pray that your tool doesn’t skate out. Perhaps this is seen as “alpine” or something but is not the style of climbing that I like. Rather, I prefer to do long moves on good holds and minimal foot placements. I’m not sure how people will take to this style back home, but there’s got to be room for everyone.

Aside from the experience at the competition, we managed to keep a good attitude and pull off some shenanigans:

LWimages RAW - Usine from Lukasz Warzecha - LWimages.co.uk on Vimeo.

I'm looking forward to more climbing at the Zoo in Chamonix and the next, and best, International World Cup at Saas-Fee, Switzerland, 2011 !! So send your good vibes from the other side of the pond.

Seoul and Cheongson, South Korea World Cup 2011

Ice, Ice, Baby. Rollin' in Seoul, we found a gem of a place to climb. An indoor ice climbing gym that includes some great mixed climbing ! The rock gym aspect isn't too shabby either, but Gordon and I had the joint to ourselves, so it was awesome.



There's loads of stores here in Seoul too. I think I've counted over a dozen small shops that carry more high end equipment than REI in Albuquerque. We were told that Korea sells more North Face equipment than all of Europe by Andrej Pejeck.

This trip to Korea wasn't so lucky in the IWC for me, but it's been a great experience to see new culture and see new places as well as meeting many new people.
We got some great photos and video that we hope to put together at some point. There's so much to see and take in.

I gave away a Beverly Mountain Guides / Strike Rescue shirt to my old friend, Alexey Dengin, from Russia. He helped me immensely last year after the competition in Rabenstein where I was able to get on some of the competition routes (something we can't do at a UIAA IWC wall), and was able to put some techniques to use and to the test for improvement for this year. He's a great guy and has good English, so we are able to chat quite a bit and have some fun.

There's definitely a separation of regions, mostly based on the languages, that takes place on the "traveling circus" (as I call it). The Euros have absorbed us from North America, and so that's generally who we hang out with. Marcus Bendler kicks ass and takes first, then the Russians pretty much run the show. They turn out in masses, 15-20 on this trip alone I believe, and that's maybe half as many as were in Kirov in 2010. It's just a small band of Euros and we bond together and support each other through good times and bad while on the tour.


This time, Angelica Rainier was wronged of her rightful win when she was pulled off her climb at this first World Competition by a judge who got overzealous that she did not clip an anchor with her rope before progressing.


They actually pulled her off the route by pulling the rope from the other end. She complained and was rightfully given a chance to repeat the route. Unfortunately, a hold broke on her when she was about 2/3 the way up the route and she fell off.

She was so cold and tired by then that she was not able to make the complaint and do yet another attempt on the route again. She was shattered emotionally. All felt that she had been stripped of a championship that included 3500 Euros (about $5000). Its a tough roller coaster for all the climbers at all levels. There's really good climbers who say that they could easily climb the routes we do, but then again, the competition aspect is a whole other animal with loads of internal and external pressures not found in recreational climbing. It seems that no matter what happens, no matter how well we did, it's never good enough.

Here we are huddled like penguins and trying to keep warm while the Korean wind blow down the canyon before the award ceremony.


Although it was great to hang out and get a good cultural exposure, I'm growing weary of being the North American climbing cheering squad. I want to make the next round and be able to climb. I need to climb smarter and harder. This is a steep learning curve. I don't think that someone (most people) will be able to show up on this platform/venue and be able to do well right away. All parties involved would like to see more Americans and Canadians involved with the IWC, but I'm sure that most people do not have what it takes to make a commitment to do well in here. Most people will never even make it out of qualification rounds. I guess I'm still throwing this out to North America: get on board and become the best mixed climber you can be.

Marc

Cheongson, South Korea

Yes ! I'm back on the UIAA International World Ice Climbing circuit and representing the USA, imagine that. I'm just sponsoring myself on this one and have a little more experience going into this round. I'm looking forward to seeing new places, meeting new friends, and gaining more experience.

The winter that seemed like it would never come because of rains and warmer temperatures finally made it to North America. With only one week of real freezing temperatures I wasn’t sure I was going to see winter at all. But as planned, Gordon McArthur, a friend I had met through an ice climbing competition in Ouray, CO several years ago, flew from Canada to meet up with me at my home in Albuquerque, NM and he must have brought winter with him. The lowest temperatures on record descended and were a wake-up call for the months ahead.

We stayed up all night training on my climbing wall in the backyard that I made specifically for mixed rock and ice climbing, something that is not readily available on the North American continent. Our flight was early the next morning for the month of competition climbing in Asia and Europe.

Flying into Seoul, Korea for my first time I am filled with the excitement of being able to be the first and only American athlete to compete in the International World Cup Ice Climbing competition in the far southeastern reaches of Korea. It is a great sense of pride that I am the only person from the USA and so I get to hang the flag. Several other Americans have competed in the IWC before, but never in Asia. South Korea is home of two of the best competition ice climbers and the country has great pride in sponsoring the first IWC on Asian soil.

This is my second year as a World Cup competitor. I don’t have the jitters like I did the first year since I know what to expect from the climbing and I know most of the other athletes. It’s the exposure to the culture and environment that is now overwhelming. New events in new places are exciting and a good cause for foreign travel to not only major cities, but also to the heartlands of these countries, affording an experience I would not have otherwise had.

Gordon and I are a Team North America of sorts and have gotten together with Malcolm Kent from Denmark in Seoul. We spend a couple of days before the competition strolling through the markets and seeing some of the arts and architecture of this ancient and great city. The economy is clearly thriving and there’s no shortage of anything. We find a good selection of mixed rock and ice climbing gear in shops that are crammed together like sardines in a can. Prices are equivalent from back home.

We meet up with the Korean representative and all the other athletes for long bus ride to the venue. I am happy to see many old friends and the excitement of competing once again surges through all of us as our laughing and sharing quick “where have you bens?” are exchanged. We also miss those who cannot make it, are no longer competing, or have passed away. The UIAA IWC is a fairly small circle of people on a grand worldwide scale.

The exotic foods catch many of us off guard. New tastes, textures, and flavors of foods are not something that I am used to, but I go for it and enjoy a rare occurrence of a new experience.

Getting off the bus the athletes are met with movie cameras and a small gathering of the local people who clap for us as we are directed into the registration room. We pick up jerseys and accept gifts from the country. This time it’s a tea pot.

Inscription and dedication evening is preceded by an incredible feast. Several drum and fan dances are performed, representing Korea’s heritage. Then it’s off to bed after a long day.

Winter Losing its Grip?

Last week, I skied in the Sandias where the unforecasted storm dumped a mere 36" of snow in a single storm. I was using a shop-vac to get the standing water off my roof. Having construction on the house doesn't help in times like this and there was a load of leaks until the water could be taken off the flat territorial New Mexican 1980's style roof They didn't build a pitch in the roof for drainage back then for some stupid reason.

Photo by Jason Nelson. The new caved coined the "Hall of Justice" because of the Superhero theme that Nelson started when putting up the first mixed routes.


Driving into Ouray, Colorado this week, I was shocked to find no snow in town and a dwindling Ice Park from RAIN !? The temps in Ouray have been balmy and it hasn't been freezing for nights on end. The Ice Park that was open to ice climbing is now closed to the public until conditions improve since the ice has dwindled to look like a late Spring melt-down. The avalanche danger is high to extreme so I'm glad I'm climbing rock with ice tools once again.

Meanwhile, I came to climb with Jason Nelson. He has put up a climb, "Holy Girl Pile, Batman" WI4 M12, in a remote cave that I have been wanting to get on for nearly two years. I figured it would be a good time since I am getting ready to return to the International World Ice Climbing Competition as there is really only 2 or 3 routes of this difficulty in the USA. The difference is that climbing outside is really nothing like climbing in a IWC. On real rock one can spend a lot of energy looking for the next hold. It would be rare that someone would be able to walk up to a climb rated M12 and be successful on the first attempt.

The climbing is awesome and highly exposed. The climbing is overhanging from the time one gets on the route. After the 6th bolt the climbing gets intense and technical. I had a good time working through the route and figuring out where the holds were and how the moves go.

We're also putting more bolts/extensions in the routes he already has established. This cave is going to be a spectacular place to train for IWC. I was in Vail last week and decided that it would be o.k. for training too, but the harsh reality, is that I'm still not really sure of how to train the best, most optimally, for the IWC. On-sighting climbs is a great skill, but there's more to it than just being able to read where the route goes, and more to it than brute strength. Technique and confidence may trump everything.

having my confidence shattered in several venues over the years, its hard to pick oneself up out of the mental mud pit and persevere. But this isn't an option I'm talking about, it's a mandatory shift in daily perception. Gotta' get up every day punch that clock and figure out how to be the best with what ya got.

There's no coach to tell me how or when to train, watch what I eat so I don't develop a worse blood dyscrasia, how to work around a fused cervical spine, or an aging body. The love of the mixed climbing movement keeps my spirit high. Really, it's this sport that saved me from a bitter otherwise. Thanks to all those whose shoulders I stand on, those who continue to develop this sport of mixed rock and ice climbing, and those who hold the key to be my inspiration.

What keeps us going is the personal challenges that we set for ourselves. New Year's Eve is coming and so is the time to consider what challenges will make us rise to the occasion and better ourselves.

Ice Holdz Petzl Ergo Gear Review

It's Time
I was fortunate enough to finish my training wall this summer and put up some Ice Holdz in conjunction with a new upside down stein pull hold that I created in order to get ready for the upcoming Mixed Rock and Ice World Cup Competitions in Asia and Europe. As well, I was able to preview some of Petzl's latest creations, the new Ergo Ice Tool.

Having used the tools of the Jedi Master's, the Nomic, for the past several years for personal use and in competitions, I wondered how much more radical a tool could get. A new tool should not compromise performance on mixed terrain (rock, moss, plastic, wood, etc.) while staying true to ease of throwing into ice. This is sometimes a hard balance to create. The ERGO tool is clearly the next stage in the mixed climbing arena.

I was able to use this tool on real rock at a local climbing crag in Albuquerque, NM as well as on my wall throwing into Ice Holdz. It definitely takes some getting used to in the trust department, but the tool clearly holds on better to dime edges and complex holds than any tool I have used before. Moreover, when punching into an upside down stein pull, you are able to get higher (placing more leverage on the hold), allowing a longer throw afterward. This is a huge advantage. I'm still learning with these tools, but I think they will be the number one arrow in my quiver this year when I hit the mixed terrain.

Check them out and put yours on order at the Strike Rescue Store
http://store.strikerescue.com/store.php?crn=242&rn=492&action=show_detail

For Ice Holdz, well, check out the video and you be the judge. These holdz are great practice for throwing into real ice. The y work best in moderate temperatures and are awesome for preseason training. Even having 4-6 of these holdz will greatly diversify your training. Mentally, it switches your focus from rock holds to having to swing into ice. They're easy to mount onto your home wall or gym. They're not that expensive and for what you get out of them you'll be happy you have some to train on.


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Physician Assistant life, MRA Conference - speaker on Naica, Las Cuevas

Thoughts on the Medical System

This last month was good to get back into the medical role once again. The medical world and the role of a physician assistant (PA-C), are always changing in some ways, and in other ways it will always remain the same. Working with people that have medical ailments is a passion for me and I like to help when and however I can.

The part I find most disturbing is that the corporate machine is "business as usual" and people, the patient, is still just another piece of meat that there is no compassion for. I can understand how the medical system is in trouble as there seems to be a delicate balance to keep it all together. I don't believe that government bailouts are an answer to any problem.

Programs that support children are always good. Programs that enable people who could otherwise work long term are bad. The abuses on all ends are atrocious. Its difficult to think that by acting locally, that things can change, but we all have to do our part.

I talked with Dr. Tryon a bit and found out that he has a custom group of people that he follows. He's checked out of the main stream and abandoned Medicare for his practice. He's essentially a "hired gun patient advocate." Truly, if you are in a hospital and don't have an advocate, you will have a harder time. There is value in having an on-call care provider 24/7, and someone who knows you well.

My advice is to stay healthy, exercise regularly (never stop), don't eat bad food, and be nice to your fellow human.

Moreover, I'm wondering about how medicine and SAR are converging. People are now being charged for SAR costs, much like they are for medical bills. Does the State have an obligation to pay for these costs, does the State have an obligation to charge for SAR services? Are there other alternatives ? Volunteerism does not seem to be enough. There are fewer and fewer volunteers in these times of economic difficulty. Those who are new to SAR do not have any skills since the programs for kids are fewer. Kids are interested in instant gratification since that's that we are training them to do. Interesting chain of events.



National Mountain Rescue Conference, Juneau, AK 2010

Click to follow link

With over 90 government authorized units in the US, Canada and other countries, the Mountain Rescue Association (MRA) has grown to become the critical mountain search and rescue resource in the United States.

The National Spring Conference 2010 is being held in Juneau, Alaska and I've been asked to present as the keynote speaker, presenting on a recent National Geographic expedition to Mexico that Strike Rescue was contracted to do. Although I have done many presentations over the years, I have not been a keynote speaker before. This should be exciting.


Cueva de los Cristales (a.k.a., Fortress of Solitude)


The topic I'm speaking on is Heat Illness. I've learned more about the effects of heat through the doctoral Exercise Science program that I am in at the University of New Mexico. This information will be coupled with the trials of running an expedition 300 meters underground and at temperatures of 48 C and humidity of 90-95%. There's no escape and there's no help if something goes wrong, so there's no room for error.

I came up with some tricks to manage this environments and the physiological issues surrounding them as well as some non-traditional ways of getting in and out to help mitigate the risk. Hope to see you at the conference !

National Geographic will unveil our expedition later this year and it promises to be exciting !

AMGA Ski Mountaineering Guides Exam 2010 (cont)

Alaska - Girdwood and Hatcher Pass 2010

It's been a long process, but this video pretty much sums it up:
Beverly Hattrup American Mountain Guides Association Ski Mountaineering Guides Exam 2010

It's been a long road and we actually aren't told if we've passed or not until at least two weeks after the exam. So, all of the candidates will be on pins and needles until the results come out. I felt pretty good throughout the exam and I was able to glean a lot of great information from the examiners and friends on the exam.

Enjoy the video.

Marc